The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer.
The rock is not very good for friction but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never ending crack systems through out the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12) , Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10) , Glimmer (5.10+) , Never Say Never (5.10) ,and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5) , Necessary Contrivance (V4) , I Seam Stumped (V3) , Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2). The area was developed from the likes of Greg Fossum, gary Johnson, Jim Slichter, Vern Olsen. It wasn't until Michael Madsen arrived in the mid 2000s and started developing boulders and climbs. Climbers of the mid to late 2000s were Jon Marek, Michael Madsen, Jade Hillestad, Mike Draewel. During the last couple of years climbers Jeff Johnson and Sam Smolinsky moved in and climbed the remaining cliffs. Find some good routes.
Weather station 6.5 miles from here
191 Total Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',61],['2 Stars',61],['1 Star',32],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in Palisades State Park
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Palisades State Park:
Featured Route For Palisades State Park
Slandeross 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b SD
: Palisades State Park
: Great North Wall
Slanderous is a pure face climb in Palisades. Start by climbing outside right of the cave, holds are surprising hard to get some being slick and others just not the best of quality. Move to the left when exiting the cave top. Slanderous follows an obvious Black streak down the Great North Wall. Best time to do it is on a sunny day in winter as you can belay from down below where as summer you top belay. First 2-3 moves are pure friction with tiny crimps and side holds. Towards the top you get a ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Looking at King Rock mid-August 2014
By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 12, 2010
Happy to see people start to explore this area more for bouldering. Want to get back and try some of the new stuff. Mike M? has been putting up a hard problems to attract a little more interest. I see him out there more than any other climber. Seems very knowledgeable and very friendly. I don't personally know him. He has been adding really good routes wish more did as well, I know it's hard but shoot, it'd be nice to have more hard problems in the vicinity.
By Amy Weed
Feb 8, 2011
Are there any sport routes in this area?
By Tane Owens
From: Pahrump, NV
May 26, 2012
It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any chance someone with current knowledge of the area can make additions or updates to the beta/park overview photo? This would definitely help me around the park, and I'm sure others would benefit from it as well.
From: Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Sep 27, 2012
I don't know, I guess it comes down to personal preference. I'd take Palisades over Blue Mounds anyday. There isn't as much climbing, but hearing the running water and being in the serene (I'm horrible at spelling)setting rather then a field at Blue Mounds is well worth the trade off for me. I usually go up there for the weekend and do Palisades on Saturday and Blue Mounds on Sunday.