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Palisades State Park

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Palisades State Park

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Lat, Long:	43.6901, -96.5147 Map
Page Views:	45,647. Good page? (1 like)
Administrators:	Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Tom Erickson
Submitted By:	Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Overview

Description

The Split Rock Creek splits a band of Sioux Quartz just outside the town of Garretson, South Dakota, making for lots of climbing right off the water. Loads of picnickers will be strolling through the area during the summer.

The rock is not very good for friction but gets a wonderful pump due to the crimps and slopers. This place is good for experienced trad climbers as well as TRing. There are never ending crack systems through out the park. Great face climbs are Slandeross (5.12) , Debuant Farmers (5.12), King Olof (5.10) , Glimmer (5.10+) , Never Say Never (5.10) ,and Henry Aaron (5.7). The area saw bouldering development in 2009 and still holds potential for new problems. Great Boulder problems to check out are Contrivance (V5) , Necessary Contrivance (V4) , I Seam Stumped (V3) , Lithium CT (V2), and Head Hunters (V2).

Getting There

10 miles north of Interstate 90, off the Brandon exit (Exit 406). 25495 485th Avenue, Garretson, SD 57030-6117

www.sdgfp.info/Parks/CampMaps/LocationMaps/Palisades.pdf

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Palisades State Park:

Lithium C.T. V2 Boulder Galaxy Tower

Puppy Love V3 Boulder, 12 feet Bridge Boulder

Necessary Contrivance V4 Boulder Bridge Boulder

I Seam Stumped V4 Boulder Bridge Boulder

Contrivance V5 Boulder, 10 feet Bridge Boulder

Racecar Ya Ya's 5.7+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Split creek cracks

January Climb 5.8 TR, 45 feet January Climb

Hand Jamwich and Offwidth Soup 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Shady Acres

Passive Pro-gression 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Split creek cracks

Stepping Out 5.8 Trad, TR RattleSnake

The Bitch 5.8+ Trad, TR, 65 feet Chockstone Tower

Wilhelm 5.9 TR King Rock

The Son Of A Bitch 5.9+ Trad, TR, 65 feet Chockstone Tower

Never Say Never 5.10a/b TR, 60 feet Never Say Never

King Olaf 5.10 TR King Rock

Cemetery Gates 5.10 Trad, TR Harkor Tower

Glimmer 5.10+ TR Harkor Tower

Grovers Graple 5.11+ Trad, TR Sesame Street Rocks

Aloha 5.12 TR, 65 feet Chockstone Tower

Slandeross 5.12+ TR, 50 feet Great North Wall

Browse More Classics in Palisades State Park

Featured Route For Palisades State Park

Glimmer 5.10+ SD : Palisades State Park : Harkor Tower

Climb directly up the face to the right of the chimney. DO NOT USE LEFT CORNER Palisades classic face climb....[more] Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Palisades State Park

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By MattZ
May 13, 2007

Palisades State Park is indeed worth visiting. The camping is great and there are many levels of routes available.

By Conor Raney
From: Pinedale, WY
Nov 12, 2010

Happy to see people start to explore this area more for bouldering. Want to get back and try some of the new stuff. Someone needs to put up a hard problem to attract a little more interest haha...I know it's hard but shoot, it'd be nice to have a hard problem in the vicinity.

By Amy Weed
Feb 8, 2011

Are there any sport routes in this area?

By Tane Owens
May 26, 2012

It seems like there have been a lot of climbing additions to the park in the past few years. Is there any chance someone with current knowledge of the area can make additions or updates to the beta/park overview photo? This would definitely help me around the park, and I'm sure others would benefit from it as well.

By trisgo
From: Omaha, NE (at the moment)
Sep 27, 2012

I don't know, I guess it comes down to personal preference. I'd take Palisades over Blue Mounds anyday. There isn't as much climbing, but hearing the running water and being in the serene (I'm horrible at spelling)setting rather then a field at Blue Mounds is well worth the trade off for me. I usually go up there for the weekend and do Palisades on Saturday and Blue Mounds on Sunday.