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Palisades Park

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A Little Help From My Friends 
April Fools 
Boobs 
Box Lunch 
Bubba 
Buckets 
Burly Girls 
Captain Crunch 
Captain Hook 
Cashmere 
Chimney 
Christmas Crack 
Corner Arete, The 
Dirty Dancing 
Elephant Crack 
Etheral Cathedral 
Exit Stage Left 
Face Of A Phantom 
Flake Face, The 
Flake, The 
Foton's Finish 
Hard Days Night 
Jumping Jack Flash 
Kiddie Crack 
Kodiak Arrest 
Lady Fingers 
Lead This? 
Marginal Monster (M&M) 
Mickey's Mantle 
Micro Gulley 
Mister Green Jeans 
My Little Pocket Frog 
Nameless Arete 
Night of the climbing dead 
Nine to Five 
Nose, The 
Oh My Achin' Head 
Pharaoh's Revenge 
Pickin Pockets 
Pillar 
Posey's Pass 
Post Nasal Drip 
R&D 
Snake Bit 
Steeples 
Street Fighting Man 
Stumbling Block 
Tim's Route 
Tinkerbell 
Trivial Pursuit 
Unnamed 7 
Unnamed Arete 
Warp Factor 
Whip Me, Beat Me 

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Palisades Park 


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Administrators: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 31, 2007
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View from the old fire tower. You have to jump th...

Description 

If you're looking for a pleasant spot to bring friends new to climbing, Alabama's Palisades Park is a great choice.

Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a state park with a nice little cliffline running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Because everything can be easily toproped, it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $2 climbing permit (this is good for two weeks). From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavillion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

The Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades.


Getting There 

From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.


54 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',27],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',6],['5.8',8],['5.9',14],['5.10',10],['5.11',6],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Palisades Park:
Posey's Pass   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chimney   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Cashmere   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Pickin Pockets   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Elephant Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Box Lunch   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Steeples   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
R&D   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Flake   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lady Fingers   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'   
Foton's Finish   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Trivial Pursuit   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Captain Crunch   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Boobs   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Post Nasal Drip   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Tim's Route   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Mickey's Mantle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Night of the climbing dead   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Christmas Crack   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Face Of A Phantom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     TR   
Browse More Classics in Palisades Park

Featured Route For Palisades Park
John Vasik cleaning Elephant Crack

Elephant Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b  AL : Palisades Park
At 5.6 in the guide, Elephant Crack is probably the most sandbagged route at Palisades. The gear placements on the face are small and not easy to find, and the roof traverse is strenuous with good potential for an unpleasant pendulum fall. This is an excellent route, but not a good choice for novice leaders.Starting on a slightly slabby face, climb to a corner under the roof. Underclinging the roof, traverse right about 25' to an outside corner and escape up the rain gully to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in AL

Photos of Palisades Park Slideshow Add Photo
Another fire tower shot.
Another fire tower shot.
Giving a ropes course for Troop 757, below Eliphant Crack.
Giving a ropes course for Troop 757, below Eliphan...
Comments on Palisades Park Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 13, 2013
By Matthew Bishop
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Feb 23, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

Park has changed is fee structure:
I believe it is $5 for a weekend pass or $30 for a year pass, but please correct me if I am wrong. Also, it is cash only still.

By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Mar 30, 2008

Pallisades Park is a well kept and beutifull park that is nice to take your family for a picnic and some nice liad back climbing. The only critter you need worry about is the ever present cane break rattler. They really like laying agianst the cliff line on a hot summer day and they're about three feet long and fat, and mean when provoked. We've been going there for years and have only saw a couple. Though, this is still a great, really pretty place and check out the chain saw carvings, really cool!!

By Sara Weimar
From: Del Rio, TX
Apr 1, 2008

How is this area in October and early November? I'm going to be in Montgomery and I'm looking for any good climbing in the area.

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Apr 2, 2008

It is perfect in October and November...temps are just right, shade in the morning, with the sun peaking over the cliffline just before lunch in most areas.

By Chris Blanchard
Feb 25, 2012

Its 3 bucks now ..... AND they have some new bolted anchors through out .. noticed on top of Posey's and a few on the Island - didn't do more digging than that.

By Nathan Self
Mar 5, 2012

Anchors are currently being installed throughout the park, with about 25 already complete. This weekend, I was told that they plan to set about 50 total.

By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
May 26, 2012

One of the few places that seems to offer tolerable climbing "out of season" (aka deep summer) in AL. The cliffline gives shade from morning through early afternoon and there's plentiful access to water from the top of the cliff.

As a heads up, the park office doesn't open until 9am to sell permits -- though we did manage to find an employee who doesn't normally work the office who was willing to open it up for us before the ranger got there. We were only charged $2, but that may reflect inexperience on behalf of the employee who checked us in.

By Siberia
From: Birmingham, AL
Jun 12, 2012

Anyone know what type of hangers they put up at Palisades? I was there this weekend, but didn't recognize them. Thanks in advance,

By jmat
Oct 2, 2012

Which routes have the new anchors on them? I haven't been to Palisades in years. I've been out of climbing for awhile, but some of the youth in my church want me to take them climbing.

By matthew foote
Dec 10, 2012

I will be in the area and was wondering what is needed to set up a TR here? I saw someone said something about bolted anchors. Are they accessible from the top, or that only for topping out on trad?

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Dec 11, 2012

Some, if not all anchors are accessible from the top. Still, it's wise to bring a few long pieces of rope or webbing (two 50 footers would be plenty) in case you want to get on a route that has not been updated.

By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
May 13, 2013

"Descent gully" was a bit tricky to find. From the massive water tank, walk along ridge moving away from central area of park. Gully is near the big antenna. There is a map in main office.