|168 page views|
- Please let me know if you get the second ascent, and let me know what grade you think it is. A lot of climbers have tried this one and still no 2nd.
Stand Start in with hands in the bottom left of the massive thin flake. get a right foot smudge far and low, and then drop knee.
with hands turned in on the flake, hop up on the drop kneed foot and do a compression gaston and lock off in this position. (if you try to pull off a weak little "hop up and grab" move, just know in the back of your cheating mind that you didn't ever get this problem...)
after locking off, power up to a right hand sloper that is above the rim and stick it with feet on.
go up with your left hand above the rim to a good pocket and throw a heel hook up to the rim. trend right to a shallow depression along the rim and then shoot to the top lip of the boulder. top out.
When facing the middle of the "True Grit" Boulder, walk to the right to where you are facing the tallest portion of the boulder. the top out is here.
look right from here to the middle of the inverted face and follow the crack formed by the enormous "Flake." the crack line is extremely shallow.
the start hands will be on the bottom right side of the flake and comfortably reached by standing normally.
this problem trends up and left, topping out on the tallest portion and most prominent point of the boulder.