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T-Wall East
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Hungry for Heaven T 
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Mrs. Socrates T 
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My Lost China Doll T 
Myth of the Spastics T 
Nappy T 
New Beginnings T 
Night Shift T 
No More Tiers T 
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Open Sesame T 
Paleface S 
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Point of Departure T 
Points O' Contact T 
Precious Orr T 
Prerequisite for Excellence T 
Proof of Purchase  T 
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Razor Worm T 
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Tiers for Beers T 
Time Takes a Cigarette T 
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Unknown T 
Up in Arms T 
Who Needs a Thnead? T 

Paleface 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Anthony Meeks - 2003
Page Views: 335
Submitted By: yevquest on Feb 9, 2009

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Description 

This is sort of an odd retro on Turbo Zone, sort of not. What do I mean? Well, stick clip a bolt, then start on Turbo Zone and climb up to a wide horizontal, never nearing the 1st bolt. Lean way left and clip the 2nd bolt, now climb TZ for another couple of moves, then bust left to a huge jug (fun move). You've now left TZ. Clip the 3rd, do 10 feet of bouldery climbing, then relax and eventually finish on the last bit of TZ.

Location 

Start on Turbo Zone.

Protection 

Bolts


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By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 9, 2009

Given 12c in the Dixie Craggers, this feels way easier than other routes of the grade at T-Wall (such as Stinger Arete, Twistin' in the Wind, Stonehinge).
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 19, 2010

I suppose the grade depends on how much you buy into the contrived nature of the bolt line. This is the worst route I've tried at T Wall. I understand the need for more "hard sport routes", but this thing is retarded. He should have just dropped a TR off turbo zone. Since this route has remained for so long, I think the bolt job needs to be fixed. The first bolt is completely useless, the second is OK, but still too far left, and the third needs to be moved right and above the jug so it protects the moves you climb. I suppose he put them where he did so that you wouldn't be able to reach them from TZ?