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Pale Face 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Miller & Rick Bradshaw
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Aaron Miller on Mar 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Perkins working through the crux on the red point....

Description 

Long, fantastic route. Climbs through a fun roof at the beginning to a shallow dihedral with technical stemming and a steep pumpy crux.

Location 

10 feet left of Grape Ape.

Protection 

14 bolts plus two for the anchor.


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By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 17, 2008

This route is really fun. I can't wait to get back to send it....
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 9, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A 70m rope is just barely long enough to lower/TR this route.
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 17, 2008

Long route and fun climbing but this thing appears to need a little more cleaning! Several X "death chunks" tarnish this route (at least, I think they are bad holds, I didn't feel like testing on the way up, nor did I put the X's on them). It's kind of frustrating when the best hold, right in front of you, has a big X on it!

Fortunately, the bolts are well placed and any fall would be of no consequence.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Absolutely outstanding route. One of the better 11+'s I have climbed in NM. Superior movement and rock. In particular, the shallow dihedral is stellar. Cheers to Aaron and Rick for the time and effort to put this up.

A couple of things regarding finding the climb and the rock quality that Anthony mentioned. I looked around quite a bit and I could not find the "plaque" that is mentioned by Marc. Nevertheless, the route description above is sufficient to find the climb (though the route is probably only 10 feet to the left of Grape Ape). Also, the rock must have cleaned up a bit since Anthony did this route, because what I encountered was clean and solid (and I am usually quite picky about rock quality). Whatever 'X' block Anthony encountered is gone.
By Aaron Miller
Oct 13, 2012

Yeah, somebody stole the plaque??? But it is easy to find, the name gives it away too.

It did clean up superbly.