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The Erratic
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Medicine  S 
County Ten Gunslinger S 
Fat Bottom Girls S 
Heart Full of Ghosts S 
Medicine Man S 
Pale Face Magic S 
Pocket Hero S 
Queen of hearts S 
Rodeo queen  S 
Soul man 
When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 
Whoa Nelly S 
Wotai S 
Wutang S 
Unsorted Routes:

Pale Face Magic 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Scott
Season: Summer/Fall
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011

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Big moves between big holds on Pale Face Magic.


Pale Face Magic is a great line of slightly overhanging jug pockets, guarded by a tricky slab start. The first few slab moves can be avoided by stemming up the chimney on the left, but either way the crux comes linking from the first flake to the second to reach the second bolt. Although small, fortunately the holds through this section are not sharp. Above, hero pulls on sinker pockets lead up the ever-steepening wall to the anchor.


Second route from the left end of the Erratic warm up area, just left of "Big Medicine". Note this area is referred to as "The Upper Remuda" in "Lander Rock".


~6 bolts to 2BA.

Photos of Pale Face Magic Slideshow Add Photo
Working up along the second flake, at the end of t...
Working up along the second flake, at the end of t...

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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Really fun route...not sure why it gets so little love in the new book, though admittedly, the bolting at the crux could be better (not sure if you would slam into the back of the chimney if you whipped at the end of the crux).
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