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Pale Face Magic
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 82
votes
Routes in The Erratic
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Alpen Thunder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Big Medicine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Blood Orange S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Booty Sweat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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County Ten Gunslinger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fat Bottom Girls S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Full Nelly S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ghost Moon S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Heart Full of Ghosts S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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I'm a Lead Farmer, Motha' Fucker S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lil Amp at The LB S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Medicine Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Medicine Trail Relay S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moonshine S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c |
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Out to Pasture S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Pale Face Magic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pocket Hero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Queen of England S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Queen of Hearts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rodeo Queen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Silly Boys, Trucks Are For Girls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soul man V7- 7A+ |
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Swallow the Gravy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Throwin' the Houlihan S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Whoa Nelly S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wotai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wutang S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Steve Scott/John Tuttle |
| Page Views: | 1,570 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Pale Face Magic is a great line of slightly overhanging jug pockets, guarded by a tricky slab start. The first few slab moves can be avoided by stemming up the chimney on the left, but either way the crux comes linking from the first flake to the second to reach the second bolt. Although small, fortunately the holds through this section are not sharp. Above, hero pulls on sinker pockets lead up the ever-steepening wall to the anchor.
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