Pale Face Magic  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Steve Scott Season:  Summer/Fall Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Jun 23, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Big moves between big holds on Pale Face Magic.

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Description 

Pale Face Magic is a great line of slightly overhanging jug pockets, guarded by a tricky slab start. The first few slab moves can be avoided by stemming up the chimney on the left, but either way the crux comes linking from the first flake to the second to reach the second bolt. Although small, fortunately the holds through this section are not sharp. Above, hero pulls on sinker pockets lead up the ever-steepening wall to the anchor.

Location 

Second route from the left end of the Erratic warm up area, just left of "Big Medicine". Note this area is referred to as "The Upper Remuda" in "Lander Rock".

Protection 

~6 bolts to 2BA.

Photos of Pale Face Magic Slideshow

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Working up along the second flake, at the end of t...