|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]|
|FA:||?? (Alam and Roumpf - 1989)|
|Submitted By:||Alam on Jul 15, 2012|
|Comments on Pair of 4s||Add Comment|
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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Aug 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Howard Snell and I climbed this today. The initial easy forty feet may continue becoming more protectable as the small cracks are cleaned out.
Some updates as of Aug 2016 ...
The flake protects very well with cams of the following sizes: BD C4s #5 (1 ea), #4 (2 ea), and #3 (1 ea; or was it a #3.5?). A solid 5.9 leader isn't going to need so much.
Added a 9/16" red sling to the existing 1" green webbing which has been up there for ~4 years.
By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Aug 27, 2012
|Bill & I also moved the rappel anchor to a live tree about 20' climber's left of the dead tree at the top of the route. We were able to rappel down with a double-strand single 60m rope by working climber's left about 30' down and then along the top of a large ledge. I don't recommend that rappel route as the rope makes several turns, goes through several bushes, and passes within several large cracks. The chances of sticking your rope as you pull it seem really high. Better to use two ropes, a tag line, or sling a horn near the end of the large crack midway up the route as a 2nd rappel anchor.|