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Painted Walls Ice Climbs

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Painted Wall Icicle, The 
Way in the Wilderness 

Painted Walls Ice Climbs  

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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 15, 2008
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This area offers one classic ice route: Way in the Wilderness. It is the obvious two-pitch ice rivulet seen from the Kancamagus Highway. Because of the wall's south-facing aspect, an ascent of Way in the Wilderness is an elusive one, saved for the dead of winter on the coldest possible cloudy day.

"An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England", S. Peter Lewis and Rick Wilcox

For updated ice conditions on the cliff check the EMS climbing store in North Conway:(603) 356 5433. They also rent snow shoes.

Websites with info:

Getting There 

Right off the Kanc. Park below the route, cross the river (sketchy), hike up the steep hill (sketchy and tiring) up to the route. If the ice on the river doesn't support your weight, chances are that the route is not in shape.

Climbing Season

For the * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Painted Walls Ice Climbs:
Way in the Wilderness   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Painted Walls Ice Climbs

Featured Route For Painted Walls Ice Climbs
"Way in the Wilderness", March, 2005.

Way in the Wilderness WI5  NH : * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing : Painted Walls Ice Climbs
Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings). Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

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