Painted Pony  5.11

971 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140 feet Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Earl Wiggins and Katy Cassidy, late 1970s Submitted By:  Paul Nelson on May 30, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

RIDE IT !!!!!!!

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

I only seconded this route, and i don't have the most detailed gear beta.

Located just right of Amaretto Corner, from the ground you'll see a thin hands crack up to a very thin chimney/offwidth, to a four foot horizonatal roof, etc. The chimney was pretty tough and bloody for me, and it has plenty of loose rock, so be careful. The roof actually is not that tough in comparison to the rest of the climb- just a really sweet undercling-highstep-lieback move.

For me, the toughest part of the climb was the LONG thin hands crack that goes from above the roof to the anchors. Very few rests, and continuous green and red camalots... ugh.

The anchors are kind of sketchy. First of all, I think that some rock has fallen off this route, leaving about 10-15 feet of ugly slab from the end of the crack up to the anchors. The anchors themselves are one old fixed piton, and one fixed hex. NO CHAINS!!! You may want to bring replacement webbing.

This is not a very good route to top-rope, as it is nearly 140 feet high. Furthermore, you will DEFINITELY want to back up the anchors for belaying your second- if you even use them at all.

All in all, there is good climbing on this route. Just be aware that it is not one of the Creek's pseudo-sporty, non-commital affairs.

Protection 

The whole scope, from #.75 to #5 (camalot sizes).