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> (e) Near End (aka Twi…
Painted Black
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 1 from 3
votes
Routes in (e) Near End (aka Twin Cracks Area)
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A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blazing Saddles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Climb Left Behind, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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F'ing 206'ers Mothers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flossing with Pubic hair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MWS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pats Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rotovap the Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinklebosch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vagina Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wormhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Paul Certa, 8/1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,131 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Mar 9, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Description
The Yoder description lured me into trying this. He calls this " a potential area classic". I am always up for an adventure, and this was a wild adventure, good thing there was no belayer or anyone below because every hold I tried came off in my hands. The edge of the crack crumbled off when I attempted to finger lock or hand jam.I used both cracks most of the way up, and I guess Bill and Paul used the right side crack which was less loose but still very dirty. On a positive note, there was no pidgin shit because it was too thin.
The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.
Still might be an area classic some day.
I did some more cleaning on this 11/15/17. I am sad to say that it is not much better, keeps exfoliating.
STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY
The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.
Still might be an area classic some day.
I did some more cleaning on this 11/15/17. I am sad to say that it is not much better, keeps exfoliating.
STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY
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