Type: | Trad, 475 ft (144 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Brandon Gottung and Karl Kvashay. FFA: Brandon Gottung and Ethan Newman |
Page Views: | 3,236 total · 35/month |
Shared By: | Brandon Gottung on Aug 20, 2016 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:
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Feel The Pain
The Pain Chamber is an incredibly beautiful, brutal route. Fun face climbing accesses the clean crack system on the left side of the giant arrowhead-shaped pillar that the route tunnels behind and summits.
P1: 5.11a. 7m. Left rising traverse past three bolts to a comfortable exposed ledge below the immaculate left-facing corner.
P2: 5.11d. 50 m. "May the Fours Be With You." Good progress on hand and fist jams leads to 20 meters of vicious off-fists finally opening up into a squeeze that feels cruel at the end of an exhausting lead. Belay at the good stance in the dark slot on #2 camalots.
P3: 5.10c. 45 m. A fun seamed-out flare (decent fixed pin and micro gear) leads up into a stunning tunneling passage to a cool 5-inch gap feature and a bolt to clip. Belay at some fixed stoppers deep in the chamber. Headlamp useful at belay.
P4: 5.11b. 40 m. First climb up and into the darkness following finger and hand cracks then squeeze, slither and squirm out into the light. One bolt on the outside protects the wildly exposed, awesome exit moves. Finish up the final grueling 6 opening to 12-inch corner to the top of the pillar.
Implements
Location
Descent
It is possible to bail from the fixed-stopper anchor on top of the third pitch by rapping through the tunnel about 30 meters to that same 2-bolt anchor on Tucupit nova.
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