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Tonsai Tower
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Pai Noon Mai 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Francois Burnier, Dominique Potard
Page Views: 365
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This was the first climb on this section of the wall, and it continues to the very top of the tower. There is an anchor at 75 feet, which you should belay at if you are continuing up. See "Rev de Phi Phi Don." If you are just doing a single pitch, continue up and left to an anchor at 90 feet. This doesn't change the grade. Stay on the bolt line; going right puts you on "Ban Dai" which is very easy. The route just left is "Three Musketeers" which is a good 5.10, and shares both anchors with "Pai Noon Mai."


Location

Middle Sector. When you get to the wall, you will see a large section of loose rock on your left, and several anchors 65 feet straight up. To the right a bit is an obvious arete. "Scenic Bulimic" takes the line up the left side of the arete, and "Andrea's Spine Line" goes up the right side. "Gladiator" takes the intimidating overhang that goes up left, just before the loose rock begins. The rest of the climbs are between. Multi-pitch to the top starts in this sector. Many shared anchors. See individual route descriptions!

From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:

- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)


Protection 

Ti and SS glue in bolts and threads. 9 draws to 75 ft, 12 to 90.



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