The North Face of Pagoda Mountain is a beautiful 1,500' slab of granite rising up between 12,000' and 13.500' above the Glacier Gorge Cirque. The North Buttress splits this wide face in the middle and rises directly in a straight line to the summit. The chances of seeing another party on this face are close to nil, the rock is mostly excellent quality granite and the setting is high and airy.
Approach is made via the Glacier Gorge, past the base of Spearhead. From the Spearhead bivys, allow 1 hr. to reach the base of the route.
Browse More Classics in Pagoda Mountain
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pagoda Mountain:
Crescent Ridge 5.6 PG13 Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
North Buttress 5.7 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Pagoda Mountain
Crescent Ridge 5.6 PG13 CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Pagoda Mountain
The climb consists of an initial technical buttress followed by a long, 3rd-class ridge and a final, tricky headwall. Climb the beautiful, clean buttress staying close to the ridge for three or four moderate pitches, following knobs and crack systems. The easiest route may venture to the east or west side for brief periods but always returns to the ridge. Most of the climbing is 5.4 or easier. The 5.5-5.6 crux is near the top of the fourth pitch, just before topping out on the initial buttre...[more] Browse More Classics in CO