padding the edge
|
Settle a debate for me. My buddy and I were climbing at a place where top-managed belays were the way to go. I set up the anchor close to the edge, but it didn't extend over the edge as well as I thought it would. I began lowering him on a Munter from the anchor and noticed the rope came down on the edge (see picture). I was already lowering him, so I continued lowering before grabbing something to pad the edge. |
|
From what I've learned, lowering off an edge as sharp as you depicted would very quickly wear your rope. Enough laps on the route on TR could pose a danger if the sheath gets worn down enough. Try all you can to extend your anchor over the cliff edge through use of slings or a longer static line. |
|
Im pretty sure your friend lost that game of Hangman. |
|
b. |
|
yer gonna die!!!!!! |
|
I go for B. It is a situation to avoid. I carry extra slings so I can extend my anchor out. When at a new area I often carry a 30' piece of web for the same purpose. (30' on three anchors about 5' extension). In similar situations I have stuffed my jacket, rope bag, pack, tape (climbing and duck), and an empty plastic water bottle on the edge and in cracks that provide abrasion resistance. |