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Mustang Ranch
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Mustang Ranch 
Padded Handcuffs 
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Padded Handcuffs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: "Padded Handcuffs" follows the dike.
Photo by Blit...


This is the short, unprotected, vertical dike at the far right side of the north face of the south formation. It's a cool clean dike and more of a boulder problem than a route. Guide books give it a 5.9 rating, although I haven't checked Randy's latest guide. I thought it was more like 5.7. There is a chimney behind it, that can be used as a descent (easy Class 5).


No pro. Solo or top rope. I couldn't really find a suitable place to set TR anchors, but didn't spend much time looking.

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By C Miller
Oct 23, 2007

More of a boulder problem than a route, but there's lots of things like this in Josh.