Padded Handcuffs  5.9 R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Blitzo on Oct 23, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: "Padded Handcuffs" follows the dike.
Photo by Blit...

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Description 

This is the short, unprotected, vertical dike at the far right side of the north face of the south formation. It's a cool clean dike and more of a boulder problem than a route. Guide books give it a 5.9 rating, although I haven't checked Randy's latest guide. I thought it was more like 5.7. There is a chimney behind it, that can be used as a descent (easy Class 5).

Protection 

No pro. Solo or top rope. I couldn't really find a suitable place to set TR anchors, but didn't spend much time looking.