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Packrat Dihedral 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,037
Submitted By: Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Cody and Rachael approaching the top of Packrat Di...

Description 

P1: Follow the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff up to a bolted belay anchor under the right hand side of the large roof.

P2: Turn the roof on the right and continue straight up to the top. Excellent.

Location 

Starts in the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff. Walk off up and to the left.

Protection 

Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are located at the top of P1 under the right hand side of the roof. Belay from gear at the top (no anchors).


Photos of Packrat Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Rachael and Cody (age 5) on pitch 1 of their first multipitch trad climb, looking like they're having a blast! May 3, 2008.
Rachael and Cody (age 5) on pitch 1 of their first...
A slight variation for the last 35 feet of pitch one of Packrat Dihedral. Quite nice.  Remember to place pro to protect the follower for the traverse back to the anchor.
A slight variation for the last 35 feet of pitch o...
Moving into the optional-but-worth-it smooth rock section near the top of the second pitch.
Moving into the optional-but-worth-it smooth rock ...
The second pitch of Packrat Dihedral is a blast. Warm weather and short sleeves in early November at El Rito--global warming's lovely side-effects.
The second pitch of Packrat Dihedral is a blast. W...
Happy family at the first belay of Packrat Dihedral. May 3, 2008. Can't wait to have Miles in these pics!
Happy family at the first belay of Packrat Dihedra...
Devin Shunk looking stoked after leading the first pitch of Packrat Dihedral. Good times!
Devin Shunk looking stoked after leading the first...
Climbers on the comfortable belay ledge at the top of the first pitch of Packrat Dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Climbers on the comfortable belay ledge at the top...

Comments on Packrat Dihedral Add Comment
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By Devin Shunk
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great second pitch on this one!
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The first pitch of this route offers loads of protection options and is enjoyable. The second pitch is airy as you step around the roof and back left over the big roof atop pitch 1. It's stellar! Personally, I find the gear options on the second pitch to be less-than-desirable with odd shaped cracks and flares. When I lead the second pitch I trend left and up which takes one into a smooth section of rock which offers a bit more challenge as well as a bit more length to the pitch. It also gets you to a bomber tree to use for a belay anchor.
By Minesh Bacrania
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The route lives up to its name! Sounded like the packrat was doing its packrat thing in/under the pile of leaves/brush behind the big flake at the first belay.....
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

If you're looking for a short bit of variation on pitch 1 of this route climb the obvious corner (a.k.a. Rat Crack) to climber's left from the good-sized ledge about 30 feet below the bolted anchor atop P1. It's steep and positive with some fun stemming and no harder than 5.8.
By Minesh Bacrania
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Another fun variation: we aimed straight up P2 after rounding the roof at the start of P2. This variation was as wonderfully "airy" as the "aim left for the tree" option discussed above, but the climbing is enjoyable (no harder than 5.6), and there are a fair number of options for gear.
By Devin Shunk
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I found my set of tri-cams very useful on the second pitch.
By Chris Tucker
Jun 2, 2010

Sling material, Locker and cord left at start of route. Didn't take it since it might have belonged to someone walking down possibly.
By DrewS
Jul 11, 2010

I spent this weekend up at El Rito and climbed the Packrat Dihedral, I am really new to Trad and this was the perfect first route awesome pro and really easy climbing. I was unable to find the bolts and I think it was because I was way on the right face, but I never did see any bolts. But from the pictures I think I was a foot or so off on the right face rather than in the dihedral...I guess it would have made sense to look there even though the guide said it was on the face rather than in the dihedral.
By Andrew Nelson
Jun 10, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route. First pitch is very straightforward. Nice and long, with lots of protection. Anchors are at the top of the dihedral. Coming out from the dihedral and getting the full view is awesome. Be warned, although the area was not closed, there were a pair of falcons nesting (mid-june) and they did not enjoy my presence. Made the second pitch a little interesting. From what we could tell, their nest was well to the left of Packrat Dihedral, but they were being very territorial. Placing gear, even on easy ground, is a little interesting when being dive-bombed by angry birds. My wife called this pitch 5.Falcon for good reason. Several trees up top to belay from before the walk off, which is cairned.