Packrat Dihedral 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Mark Mathis on Aug 5, 2007 |
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Moving into the optional-but-worth-it smooth rock ...
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Description P1: Follow the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff up to a bolted belay anchor under the right hand side of the large roof.
P2: Turn the roof on the right and continue straight up to the top. Excellent.
Location Starts in the obvious dihedral on the right hand side of the cliff. Walk off up and to the left.
Protection Standard Trad Rack (Set of nuts, set of cams, and slings). Additional passive pro may be useful (e.g., hexes or tri-cams). Anchor bolts are located at the top of P1 under the right hand side of the roof. Belay from gear at the top (no anchors).
A slight variation for the last 35 feet of pitch o...
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The second pitch of Packrat Dihedral is a blast. W...
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Devin Shunk looking stoked after leading the first...
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Rachael and Cody (age 5) on pitch 1 of their first...
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Happy family at the first belay of Packrat Dihedra...
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Cody and Rachael approaching the top of Packrat Di...
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BETA PHOTO: Climbers on the comfortable belay ledge at the top...
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| Comments on Packrat Dihedral |
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By Devin Shunk
Sep 24, 2007
rating: 5.6
| Great second pitch on this one! |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.6
| The first pitch of this route offers loads of protection options and is enjoyable. The second pitch is airy as you step around the roof and back left over the big roof atop pitch 1. It's stellar! Personally, I find the gear options on the second pitch to be less-than-desirable with odd shaped cracks and flares. When I lead the second pitch I trend left and up which takes one into a smooth section of rock which offers a bit more challenge as well as a bit more length to the pitch. It also gets you to a bomber tree to use for a belay anchor. |
By Minesh Bacrania
Sep 30, 2007
rating: 5.6
| The route lives up to its name! Sounded like the packrat was doing its packrat thing in/under the pile of leaves/brush behind the big flake at the first belay..... |
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 4, 2007
rating: 5.6
| If you're looking for a short bit of variation on pitch 1 of this route climb the obvious corner (a.k.a. Rat Crack) to climber's left from the good-sized ledge about 30 feet below the bolted anchor atop P1. It's steep and positive with some fun stemming and no harder than 5.8. |
By Minesh Bacrania
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.6
| Another fun variation: we aimed straight up P2 after rounding the roof at the start of P2. This variation was as wonderfully "airy" as the "aim left for the tree" option discussed above, but the climbing is enjoyable (no harder than 5.6), and there are a fair number of options for gear. |
By Devin Shunk
Sep 16, 2009
rating: 5.6
| I found my set of tri-cams very useful on the second pitch. |
By Chris Tucker
Jun 2, 2010
| Sling material, Locker and cord left at start of route. Didn't take it since it might have belonged to someone walking down possibly. |
By DrewS
Jul 11, 2010
| I spent this weekend up at El Rito and climbed the Packrat Dihedral, I am really new to Trad and this was the perfect first route awesome pro and really easy climbing. I was unable to find the bolts and I think it was because I was way on the right face, but I never did see any bolts. But from the pictures I think I was a foot or so off on the right face rather than in the dihedral...I guess it would have made sense to look there even though the guide said it was on the face rather than in the dihedral. |
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