At the Neanderthal Wall as you're going south on the trail, go past the large block and find an arete on the wall with a small alcove to the right of the arete. In the back of the alcove, climb the double cracks. The first moves off the deck are reachy, but the climb offers a fine, moderate lead.
Standard rack. Some hexes work well in the cracks.
Per teece303: there is a two bolt anchor with quicklinks.
Damn fun route. Very good beginner trad-lead in my opinion. don't be afraid to reach a bit higher and find much better holds. The more timid you are, the harder the route. Either way, fun-fun-fun.
By percious From: Bear Creek, CO Apr 2, 2012 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Great route with great protection. I wish it was longer. The opening moves are steep, and there's some loose rock at the crux before entering the chimney. No way I'd send a beginner leader up this one, but it's a good place to practice setting some anchors at the bottom.
By teece303 From: Highlands Ranch, CO Jul 4, 2013 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
This route has two bolts at the top, with quicklinks. One of the bolts is a a spinner.
It overhangs by a few feet, which is surprising when you look at it (but watch the rope hang, it does not contact the rock at all).
It is harder than 5.6 -- 5.8 I'd say, at least by modern standard. The crack will eat up protection. The crux is down low.