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|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Not the best looking rock, but climbs well and is fun. Also one of the longer routes on this wall of shorter climbs.
Climb double cracks (3-3.5") and then the fingery crack above. Clip a bolt that protects a section where the crack pinches down to nothing (crux). Climb past another bolt on easier terrain eventually arriving at a stretch of very easy off-width skirted by using the right wall.
Crux may end up feeling harder for those with bigger fingers, and vice versa.
Left side of cliff, several minutes from Hand Solo. Left of Hair and Roses. Right facing dihedral with two bolts halfway up - fairly obvious.
Less than 60m to ground.
A double set from 0.5 to 3.5", with big gear being optional because the wide section is easy and can also be protected in a separate crack with 4" gear.
By Karl kelley
Sep 4, 2014
FA. Karl Kelley. while doing the FA and cleaning the route, I peeled off a flake/loose rock and to my surprise a dead pack rat was resting behind. Kinda gross!