I'm heading to Smith Rocks for 3 days next week (Wed-Fri), and I'm curious if the Lower Gorge is climable this time of year?

And if I'm looking to climb mostly trad, can anyone recommend some good crack climbs (all over, not just in the Lower Gorge)

Thanks
Andy

The Lower Gorge is climbable this time of year. The far side gets sun the second half of the day.

What grade cracks are you looking for?

9 to 10c/d cracks... any recommendations? Obviously most the stuff in the Lower Gorge looks good, but what about some good trad (or mixed) lines out in the main areas?

Which is the "far" side? East columns or West columns as described in the mp.com description for the Lower Gorge?

Thanks
Andy

Andy,
The far side means the east columns.

You currently can't cross the river easily, (once you're in the gorge) so you need to pick a side to climb. This means, you'll have sun and shade equally, on whichever side you choose.

Here's a few Lower Gorge routes to check out: (mostly on the west columns)
-Last Chance 10c
-Badfinger 10b
-Cruel Sister 10a
-Mantra 10a
-Original Sin 10c
-Hand Job 10b

And a few tuff routes:
Calamity Jam 10c
Moonshine Dihedral 9
Kunza Korner 10c
Cull's In Space 10c
Sundown 9
Trezlar 10a

Here's a good start for you. Maybe somebody else will add more.

Karate Crack, Moonshine Dihedral, and Zebra/ Zion should really be on the list too. They're all in the main area of Smith.

Just to add a few ideas:

Basalt:
-Morning Star (Lower Gorge, West Side, 10c). 4-star route - incredible IMHO! Can't miss it as there's an etching of a climber at base.
-Wildfire (Lower Gorge, West Side, 10b). Varied and Excellent & not terribly sustained.
-If you're going to get on Cruel Sister, might as well try Blood Clot (6 feet over to the right, 10b) and Quasar (15 feet over to the right, 10a). Both great.
I did not like Mantra (10a) too much (bit sandy on bottom) but that's just my 5 cents. Anything with 3 or 4 stars in the gorge is probably excellent?

Best of the grade (my humble call): Cruel Sister (10a), Badfinger (10b), Morning Star (10c).


Tuff:
-Zebra-Zion is not to be missed. Same for Karate Crack & Moonshine D.
-If you're going to make a hike for Trezlar (BTW, I'd recommend bypassing standard pitch 1 which is kinda loose if easy with the sport line to the right, Cosmos 10a), get on Sundown (5.9) and Tale Of Two Shitties (10a).
-Sky Ridge (5.8 with 5.5R at bottom) - for views/position (cool photo op for your 2nd on P2) and good moderate climbing.

I know it might be easy (easiest line anyway), but do something on Monkey. The rap off the summit alone is worth it! West Face Variation (5.8) linked with Pioneer Route (5.7 A0) makes for a nice outing.

the river is now crossable (5/15/06)