I'm going to be at these areas for the first time in early September. I'd like a few specific route recommendations...

First, while I'm at Smith I'd like to do one (hard) route on the Monkey Face. The Watts guidebook recommends both the North Face and the NW Passage... which one would be a more classic adventure up the Monkey Face? What about Astro Monkey?

Second, I'd also like to project a climb while I'm there in the 12+/13- range. Chain Reaction seems to be the obvious choice, but I've heard it's very short. Is there a better climb in this range to focus my attention on?

While at Index I'd also like to do a harder route... Andy Laakmann recommended Japanese Gardens, so that's the plan. Does anyone recommend any of those multipitch sport climbs in the 11+/12- range (Sisu & Good Girls...) on the Waterfall area of the Upper Town Walls?

Thanks for your help!

Here's an 11 on the upper wall...
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls>>>>>

Josh,

Astro Monkey has a great name, but is one of the least good routes on the Monkey (all of the routes on the monkey are good). I've never done NW passage, but it includes all of the pitches of the North Face, which is 10-11 stars, depending on whether you use a 4 or 5 star scale. If you have the time and stamina, I would do NW Passage, since it inlcudes all of the N Face, and the first half of the W Face, which I hear is also great (splitter fingers). However, if you're pressed for time, I would do the North Face. In fact, you should also consider doing Spank the Monkey (12a) and Rising Expectations (11d splitter finger crack) while you're out there. Monkey Space is historic and such, but the climbing is particularly noteworthy, and the best pitch is shared with the N Face.

The single best pitch at each grade, IMO, to project in the 12/12+/13- range:

12b: Latest Rage
12c: Heinous Cling
12d: Kings of Rap
13a: Darkness at Noon
13b: Slit Your Wrist

If I had limited time I would do two easier projects vs. one harder one. For exampple, I would do Heinous Cling and Chain Rection or Heinous Cling and Latest Rage. Considering the time of year (Sept), anything in the sun will be really hot. This will make it difficult to log many hours on Chain Reaction, Go Dog Go (12c, not 12d), Latest Rage, Slit your Wrist, Churning, or Kings. However, Chain, GDG, and Latest Rage will get late evening shade. Heinous Cling and Darkness will be in the shade from 1pm till sunset (primo).

I would recommend strongly against spending a lot of time in the Aggro Gully on your first trip to Smith. Smith is all about aesthetics, and Aggro Gully is the least aesthetic crag in the park (lots of glue, stank rock, center of gravity for egotistical locals). Even in blazing heat you will be able to find plenty of shade.

Beware, many first time visitors are overly anxious, get up early, and blow out their tips cranking on sharp crimps in the morning sun. They're done by 2pm and they miss out on the killer afternoon/evening conditions in the Dihedrals and Christian Bros.

Its possible to chase shade by climbing on the "back side" (west side) in the morning, but all that hiking in the heat will cause your feet to swell, and then your feet will hurt even more on those tiny edges. I recommend patience, sleeping in, and climbing in the afternoon. For a first time visitor you will want to spend your time on the Monkey, and in the Dihedrals and Christian Brothers (plus Toxic, 11b, Aggro Gully: must-do). If you're really anxious that first day, go to the Monkey, which gets morning shade.

In addition to the above, for trad-lovers, I highly recommend:
-Wartley's Revenge, 11b
-Sunshine Dihedral, llb
-Karot Totts, 11b
-Shoes of the Fisherman, 11b
-Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9
-Calamity Jam, 10c
- Afternoon trip to the Lower Gorge including:
--Catalyst, 12b
--Try to be Hip, 12a
--On the Road, 11a
--The Pearl, 11b
--Morning Star 10c
--Many other 4 star 5.10s

The only other absolute must-do not mentioned is Dreamin, 12a.

Hope you have a great trip. Smith is, in my experience and opinion, the best crag in the world.

The N Face of the Monkey is extremely classic, and it's great finger locking/stemming. I highly recommend it. Plus, it will be shady, which is nice in Sept.

For sport projects, Chain is a good route, but probably not your best choice for your first time at Smith. It gets sun all day, and it is short. Some people (who are crazy) don't like it.

It seems like everyone does "Churning in the Wake" as their first 13 there, but it is also in the sun most of the day.

"Darkness at Noon" is my favorite 13a in the universe, and it gets shady at noon. Right next to it is "Heinous Cling" which is a nice 12c. Both these routes are super long - about 115 feet.

The Aggro gully has many shaded routes, but they are mostly 13 and up, plus many of these routes have some funny business on them.

Other routes to consider are "Last Waltz", "DaKine Corner", "Boy Prophet", "Kings of Rap", and "Oxygen", but all of these routes have issues with sun exposure. They are classics, though.

Be sure you spend at least one day in the gorge...there are some super rad routes in there.

Nearly everything at Index is good. The area is seeing a lot more activity of late, so a lot of re-cleaning of existing routes and route developement is taking place. "Swim" on the Upper Town Wall is worthy and seems like something you are looking for @ 6 or 7 pitches. Lots and lots to do. Hope this helps

Thanks everyone for the recommendations -- I especially appreciate your suggestions on strategy for getting the most out of a trip to Smith, Monomaniac. Cheers!