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Mt. Blackburn Alaska question

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By rockdude
Oct 1, 2006

Does anyone have any info, beta, or like wise about climbing Mt Blackburn in May-June?

Thanks,
John..
_________________

By Jesse Ryan
Oct 1, 2006
Psyched or bananas

John

A group of us attempted Blackburn in May '99. We were flown in to the arm of the Nabesna glacier. Made a high camp in the head of the valley below the N ridge. Attempted ridge several times, all times signs pointed to bad avy conditions. Tried a NW ridge spur once with really bad avy conditions. Had a quick storm cycle and snowpack never had time to settle between loadings. We had a great time in area. Very beautiful, very isolated. Highly recommend, but be very avy aware. Some very accomplished and not so accomplished mtneers have perished there under the snows. Heard some stat (wish I would have been aware before of) that the Wrangel/St Elias ranges have the most avy fatalities per mountaineer visiting.

On the plus side you will have routes akin to those in the Alaska range in length and technical difficulties without any crowds, have to find your own way, be self sufficient, more committing.

Jesse

By rockdude
Oct 3, 2006

Jesse,

How difficult is the mountain? Is it a highly technical with steep Ice climbing? I guess the big question is can a few guys who have only climbed here in the lower 48 be up for this climb?

Thanks,
John..


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