I realise that this route has provoked too much controversy, but I am about to drive from Utah where I live to do it. Some people say it has been chopped and for me that would seem unfortunate. I recall years ago driving all the way to Baja in Mexico to climb the Pan American Wall only to find the Skinner bolts chopped by fanatic San Diego climbers. After hiking down there we had to make the trip again with hammer and pins to do it in its "original state". Can anyone up there in the Great Pacific NW tell me if this route (Infinite Bliss on Garfield) is still intact and climbable? I just need the straight scoop, not a bunch of slander how scandalous this thing is.

Well, unfortunately ignorant bliss is still intact because the community seems to completely confuse individual restraint [from chopping] with tacit approval of the route. Some of us think it was simply a lost opportunity to show that we as a community are capable of reponsibly policing ourselves. It is simply amazing to think someone would drive by all the great routes in the NW to climb this abortion.

And you probably haven't even climbed it. I have done quite a few routes in your neighborhood...who knows, maybe more big routes than you have. I would bet I have, actually. Maybe I won't even enjoy the route...but I for one have never heard people who have actually climbed it dis it. Though I live in Utah, I have traveled to more than a few other places to climb...and long bolted routes in Switzerland, France, Canada, Brazil, Mexico, Italy, plus elsewhere have always appealed to me. The FA party drilled it on lead, it is hardly in "wilderness area" if it is only 30 minute approach....geez, similar routes have been put up in the Cirque Of the Unclimbables in the Northwest Territories of Canada....now that is wilderness. You need to get over your self. Go chop it with the same self righteous beliefs that burn books or morally edit movies (here in Utah) if that is where you are at. I am sure you will feel wonderful about yourself afterwards!

James, I had some friends who are local to the area do it, and they really enjoyed it. Shoot me an email and I'll send you a link to their photo's if you want a look at some of it.

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC

Cool, I'd appreciate that Brian. Hey...just finished EMPTY PLATE on West Wind Buttress in LCC today. It still felt empty in that the rock really deteriorated at top, but the route does go to the top now. I also recently climbed EASTWIND CRACK and did a ton of cleaning, even took my little hand saw along...that is a quality route for an old route that never became a classic even though George Lowe first did it....but maybe it will never clean up, I don't know. A really fun 5.7-5.8 route. I was amazed that I had never done it! I am looking forward to IB in WA if the weather holds. Cheers!

I would also be more than interested in some more in depth info on the route than what I have been able to dredge up. I had a friend who climbed it couple years ago and said it was many pitches of fun 5.10 climbing with some run outs which definitely puts it out of the sport climbing catagory! Comes as no surprise that the thing was bolted on lead I guess... and the fact that it DOES lie in a wilderness area was unknown to the FA party who used a map which was inconsistent with USFS maps.

Ill be heading up from the Colorado area near the end of August to return back to my NW roots so I will keep my fingers crossed that the armchair ethics police wont be chopping anytime soon.

I will have to agree, hardly a wilderness area. 30 min approach and you can see it from I-90. I have yet to climb it. But it is on the: to do list for sure. Its is and will be one of the classics. 3000 feet of climbing protected with a few bolts. Sound like fun to me.

If you don’t like it, don’t climb it. But please quit bitching about it

kev, you are fully aware that this climb IS in a wilderness area. that is not even debatable, so why try and confuse the issue?

further, i am pretty sure the entire climb was rapbolted; see here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=88703>>>>>

i am not hating on the climb, but i don't like seeing the history of this climb being whitewashed, either.

I don’t care whether or not it was rap bolted or not, matter of fact, I personally would have it be rap bolted. Rap bolted climbs seem to be bolted more responsibly. Either way its all good bro.

if you guys are looking for more info just go to cascadeclimbers.com and ask.

just kidding.


dont ask. some of them go ballistic. it is kind of funny.

but you can search there i think they have a topo.

Just climbed this route after an earlier attempt a year ago when it just was too hot. This time the weather was beautiful and in the 70s instead of high 90s and we found the upper pitches great.

The crux seems to be finding the correct descent down while rappelling the 4th class sections. This can be a bit confusing since two to three bolted chain anchors prevail over the rest of the route. Here in the 4th class, we couldn't find chains, but weak looking anchors of slings around thin heather bushes that we needed to seek out. It's all good. The upper 5 pitches were totally worth it.

And a word to the potential choppers. Time will probably put a short half life on this climb as many of the bolts are already quite rusted and it wasn't put up all that long ago. Better get it while the gettin' is good!

I also wanted to add that the FAers did do a lot of hard work on this route and I wanted to thank them. It was worth driving to WA from UT to do it and I would recommend it to anyone who loves slab!