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Good moderate multipitch at Smith Rocks?

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By JacobD
From McCall, ID
Mar 8, 2008
Following the first pitch of the great red book.

I'm wondering if anyone knows of any lesser known up to 5.10+ multipitch routes in smith. The longer that better. Also what is the longest route at smith?

By Phillip Dobson
Mar 9, 2008

I don't really go to Smith for its multi-pitch. When I'm looking to rest a bit, however, I take to the longer easy routes.

I really enjoyed Sky Ridge (5.8R). The rock quality leaves something to be desired, but the position is great. The Pioneer Route (5.7 A1) on Monkey Face is cool, but I imagine it would get tedious if you did it more than once. The marsupials have a ton of routes that are rarely visited and longer than most, (I haven't been there myself).

To avoid crowds, the best plan is to simply hike. With all of the great climbing with easy access, people rarely hike to the farther routes.

By Richard Adler
From Bend, Oregon
Mar 9, 2008

www.smithrock.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=535

and

www.summitpost.org/route/157864/wherever-i-may-roam.html

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From Hinesburg, Vermont
Mar 9, 2008
Me and my pup, Mabel, on the Launch Pad at Whitehorse Ledge, NH.

Zebra/Zion is a great 3-pitch 10a up the central right side of the Morning Glory Wall. Great positioning and great gear.

Round River Direct over in the Marsupials is a stellar outing. From what I remember, it is 2 long, or three short pitches. The crux is easy 5.8. Good gear, great views. The approach is a little long, but not taxing.

Another wonderful route is Spiderman. For 5.7, you don't get much better (save for the Pioneer's Route) than this. Plus, there are other tremendous moderates within a stones throw of it once you're done.

By Kenji
From Behind The Orange Curtain
Mar 9, 2008

Be careful choosing multi-pitch in Smith.... lots of the formations are considerably lower quality on the second pitches, therefore more runout and loose. Compared to the first pitch hard stone and solid pro, it's a bit of a switch, mentally.

By JacobD
From McCall, ID
Mar 9, 2008
Following the first pitch of the great red book.

Thanks! Richard those two routes look awesome.

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From Portland, OR
Mar 10, 2008
Belay

'Wherever I May Roam' is a good one. I've found that it's a great route for teaching people the ins and outs of multi-pitch climbing.

By rpc
Mar 11, 2008

I posted a sort of limited (mostly trad stuff and all <5.11) area page for Smith on summitpost, here the link:

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/184038/smith-rock-crags>>>>>

Moderate multi-pitch outings...what others have said are great suggestions. I'd add to that list (all these are written up on SP):

1. Marsupial Traverse. Many (8?) short pitches and can keep the difficulty <5.8. Nice position, cool formations, forgettable climbing.

2. West Face Variation (5.8) to Pioneer Route (5.7 A0) on Monkey Face. Start early or you'll be stuck in a big line in the spring.

3. White Satin (5.8-5.9) - 3P mostly trad. Great line!

4. Sky Ridge (5.8) - 2P great position, runout on 5.4 choss.

5. Wherever I May Roam (5P 5.9 all sport) - OK route.

6. First Kiss (5.7 5P) - all sport.

7. Water Groove (5.10 A0, 4P) - new & dirty but also all bolted.

8. Trezlar (5.10a, 2P) - great climbing but there's a scary flake on the money pitch.

9. Tale of Two Shitties (3P 10a) just next door.

10. On the summitpost page, I also list some rel. obscure stuff. Eg's Paper Tiger (2P 5.10a -- careful with loose rock, don't kill anybody below), Snibble Tower (5P 5.9 A0, same comment), Peking all the way to the top (5.8 2P), Solar (5.9 3P), Sky Chimney (5.7, 3P).

Don't climb anything loose up high above a popular area on a busy day - don't want to kill anyone.
enjoy.

By rpc
Mar 11, 2008

OK can't help myself, couple more:

Karate Crack (10a) to Peapod Cave (10a) to one of the finishing options from 5.5 to 5.9. Cave has a touch of loose stuff - careful, busy area.

Lost Fox (5.8, 2P). Long hike, decent climbing & solitude. Few single pitch moderates in the area.

Cave Rt. on Brogan Spire (5.6, 3P). Fun & great position.

Some easy to moderate clean aid lines can be had on Monkey also if you want something different (great exposure).

By Billcoe
Apr 9, 2008

I've done those all RPC mentions: good list, except marsupials traverse which I don't remember at all, many times. However, perhaps the 2 best are Free Lunch on picnic lunch wall. 5 pitchs of varied climbing. Pretty much be solid on 5.10a and you'll be fine, the first pitch is the 10a - bolts, then gear for the last 3 after a weaselly traverse. Zebra Zion is arguably the best at Smith (my fav), however, there tends to me masses of folks below and I won't do it any more. Trezlar is pretty short, but stellar for a crack climb. The longest route there is Abraxas, and I think it still has aid to this day, and would be quite an adventure route.

By Billcoe
Apr 9, 2008

I've done those all RPC mentions: good list, except marsupials traverse which I don't remember at all, many times. However, Free Lunch on picnic lunch wall didn't get mentioned and it may be one of the top 2 long routes there. 5 pitchs of varied climbing. Pretty much be solid on 5.10a and you'll be fine, the first pitch is the 10a - bolts, then gear for the last 3 after a weaselly traverse. Zebra Zion is arguably the best at Smith (my fav), however, there tends to me masses of folks below and I won't do it any more. Trezlar is pretty short, but stellar for a crack climb.

Adventure routes and long stuff:
The longest route there is Abraxas, and I think it still has aid to this day, and would be quite an adventure route. Joe Prinz did a long aid route in the 60's on the right side of that formation too, if you want a real adventure head up the East side, it might even be a free route, wear a helmet for sure. Brian Holcolm did a multipitch up 3 finger jack too, right up the middle of the wall, it goes like 3 or 4 pitches till he ran out of steam. I went up and tried to push that up some more in the 80's and didn't contribute much before bailing.


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