Im considering moving to oregon in august, but I need to know how the climbing is there before I consider it. If anyone could give me an honest interpretation of how the climbing is there I would greatly apperciate it. I am mostly interested in single and multi-pitch trad routes. Also, how is the weather, and does it really rain all the time like everyone says? I would be moving to Eugene because thats where the school that my girl friend would be going to, but i told her if there wasnt good climbing I wouldnt go. I know its two hours from smith rock, but Ive only ever heard of this as a sport climbing destination. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

you choose climbing over your girl friend? good man!

unfortunately, multipitch trad is not all that common in oregon. that being said, smith does offer some damn good trad climbing, including several classic multipitch routes.

remember, you're not that far from yosemite (~8 hrs), squamish (~8 hrs), north cascades (6-8 hrs), leavenworth (6-7 hrs), etc. those are all doable in a marathon weekend if you're getting desperate for multipitch.

as for the question of whether it's worth moving for your girlfriend...well, eugene is a pretty cool town, and oregon is a pretty cool state in general. climbing isn't too far away, and frankly, women are nice to have around.

also, trout creek is pretty close. it's splitter crack heaven. happy travels.

Chris,

I was born & raised in Corvallis, ~45 minutes north of Eugene. The Willamette Valley is a great place to live, but its a pretty frustrating place to be a climber. There is virtually no (worthwhile) climbing within 3 hours. If you are willing to drive, Smith is an awesome crag, the best in the country, IMO. There is stellar trad climbing at smith (single & multi-pitch), though you are correct in pointing out that no one ever talks about it. To be realistic, the drive to Smith is 3 hrs, not 2. There is a gym in Eugene. Personally, I think the gym really sucks, but plenty of people have fun there.

It does indeed rain all the time, from mid-October to mid-April, every day, for 6 months. The summers are beautiful though.

Bottom line, I don't know many serious climbers who have survived west of the Cascades for very long. But, if you would be satisfied getting out 1-2 times/mth, you could be very happy there. How hot is your girlfriend?

I grew up in Oregon and went to school in Eugene. I have climbed quite a bit around Oregon. The west side of the Cascades (Eugene and such) is pretty horrible for climbing. The rock is rare and the weather is WET. However, the east side (around Bend) is amazing! Not only is there a ton of trad and sport at Smith but the desert is full of little known but world class crack climbing areas. I would move to the east side of the Cascades in a second.

Not to get too far off topic, but how crowded is smith on a regular basis? Do weekends there basically require getting in line for routes?

Monomaniac is pretty much right on. In 2001 I moved to Corvallis for a girlfriend going to OSU. Climbing was all I wanted to do and it was nearly impossible to do. In retrospect the move was good for personal development and absolutley horrible for climbing. (I did made some good friends though). Smith Rock is awesome, and one of the best crags anywhere, but thats all you got, and its 3 hours away. And yes, the "trad" climbing is amazing there too. Break off the relationship- don't do it! At this point in your life just climb, don't worry about women!

I'd say move to Bend and visit on the weekends. Much better climate, and between mountaineering and backpacking in the Three Sisters/Three Finger Jack area, great skiing right on the edge of town, and Smith just up the road....Bend is the bomb!!!

Wilcox, depends on the rte. Smith has over a thousand routes. There are ~50 or so ultra-classic routes that you will have to wait in line for on a weekend day in peak season, but there is a lifetime of excellent "obscure" routes that rarely see action.

Chris, I just graduated from the University of Oregon in March and actually learned how to climb here and spent summers back in Colorado. While the climbing in Oregon is not as abundant as in Colorado, there is still plenty of good climbing to be had. In Eugene there is the Crux rock gym, the columns which is a fun local spot in Eugene you can ride your bike to, and the University of Oregon just got a 150 thousand dollar budget to build a new climbing wall that will be going in this summer built by the great people of Entre Prises up in Bend.

Everyone has already talked about Smith and how great it is, which I totally agree wit, but there are also a few smaller crags located a bit closer to Eugene. There is Flagstone which is about a hour and a half from Eugene in the cascades which has fun 1-2 pitch sport routes secluded in the trees and there is also the Calahans down in Roseburg that offers fun sport climbing on sandstone which is a nice relief from climbing on the volcanic welded tuff. All in all it is not that bad of a place to live and climb, but get ready for some rain.

Jay

Chris,
I moved to Portland 2.5 years ago from Tucson, AZ where the climbing season is 300 days a year (plus or minus). For me, the rock climbing in Oregon is okay when you get the chance, but for a serious rock climber, it sucks. It's all about the freaking rain. Thank goodness there is the alpine climbing to keep me sane and it is wonderful.
Peter

I don't know man you are in a tough situation. Please post a picture of your girlfriend so we can help you make a good choice.