Pablo Diablo Extension
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 2,145 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | peachy spohn on Nov 6, 2013 · Updates |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This is a hard route to star. It could be great, and the start (Pablo Diablo) is excellent. The holds on the extension are sandy and there are many brittle flakes on the periphery, but the actually movement is very good and exciting. Once you reach the anchors of Pablo Diablo, veer left by throwing to the beginning of the rail system (big move, but intermediates abound). The rail itself is not very hard, just slopey and pumping, with a somewhat powerful move in the middle of the roof.
My biggest problem with the extension is the anchor placement; it is up and left of the gigantic hueco. This makes the route pretty impossible to clean and the rope rubs harshly against a lot of edges. When I did it, I climbed to the anchors and then down-climbed to back clean. It's pretty easy to do this and there really isn't a better way - I don't think the anchors could be moved to anyplace better.
My biggest problem with the extension is the anchor placement; it is up and left of the gigantic hueco. This makes the route pretty impossible to clean and the rope rubs harshly against a lot of edges. When I did it, I climbed to the anchors and then down-climbed to back clean. It's pretty easy to do this and there really isn't a better way - I don't think the anchors could be moved to anyplace better.
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