P1(5.7)-Start 75' right of Homeworld. Scramble up the corner to a small ledge and step out left into an obvious crack. Follow the natural line straight up, eventually leading to the obvious Double Pine Chimney. Follow the chimney to its end (I used the branches of the pines as hand and foot holds) and continue on lower angled ground to a nice big ledge and 2 bolts (Homeworld's 2nd pitch anchor).
P2(5.8)-Alpine Corners Pitch, follow the obvious left facing corners right of P1 anchor, up and right to a nice ledge and build a gear anchor. A#2 C4 is nice here
P3(5.7)- Straight up, follow the natural line of discontinuous cracks to a small ledge and another gear anchor.(Can link p3 & p4 w/60m rope)
P4(5.10)- Continue straight up the obvious line. Just past the belay keep an eye out for a natural thread that protects a move into the crack system (thin sling is needed for thread). Crux thin move at bulge where the crack peters out. Big move into nice finger crack. Move left to bolt when crack ends then climb past another bolt to a 2 bolt belay. There is a knob you can sling to protect the last moves to the anchor.
P5(10a)- Follow the ramp at your right up a bit and right into a left facing corner. Follow corner up until you can traverse left and move into the large left facing corner that hangs directly above the anchor. Follow this corner up to an awkward flaring chimney/stem move. Keep an eye out for the thin angling crack where you can protect with a Lowe Ball and a micro C3. Continue up another 15' to a bolt. Traverse left at the bolt (exposed) into a small left facing corner. Move up a bit and left into another small left facing corner. Finally, move left again to a 2 bolt anchor. WATCH ROPE DRAG AND PREVENT GETTING YOUR ROPE STUCK, IF YOU CAN, IN THE BEND IN THE CORNER.(A 2.5 Tri-cam is very nice on this pitch and the next right before the anchor).
P6(10+)- From the anchor, climb up to the bulge and clip a bolt (the 2.5 Tri-Cam protects the move getting to the bolt). Move a bit right and make a big move to a great, if you hit it right, incut hold. Mantle up and step back left into a left facing corner. Climb up and right over corner then up and back left into a discontinuous crack. Follow the crack to its end. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a hummock ramp. Follow the hummock ramp/ledge (keep eye out for a .5 Camalot placement for directional) to a 2 bolt belay (shares the anchor with the last pitch of Dangling Chads )
This route starts 75' right of Homeworld
Very small(000C3) to #3 Camalot w/extra #1C3 to #.75 Camalots.
Stoppers(offset and micro are nice) with extra in the small/med sizes
Tri-cams are nice especially the 2.5 (there are a few places where nothing else worked)
Also used a few Lowe Balls
Lots of draws and slings for P5 (14 wouldn't hurt)
BETA PHOTO: The 5th pitch with climber in the large left faci...
Straight to the top
Looking up the the third pitch and the rest or the...
Josh nearing the P5 anchor
The last pitch. Moving right past the small left f...
BETA PHOTO: P-Line Topo
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the large left facing corner on pi...
Climber after the rope eating crack section of Pit...
Jan 7, 2012
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Josh Mucci, 4/8/2010
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Nothing to add to the route desciption except to say that this route is so good! P4, 5, and 6 are incredible. I'd definitely repeat this one!
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Jan 20, 2012
Super fun day Les!
The first 2 pitches are fun but a bit loose, not to bad if you are carefull. The rest of the route is solid and the upper 3 pitches are great, (4 out of 5 stars). You can link P3 and 4.
|By kevin deweese|
From: walnut creek, ca
Oct 23, 2012
Pitch 4 and 5 are absolutely STELLAR. Very classy crack and face moves on P4 and varied P5.
WATCH YOUR ROPE when you come around the corner on Pitch 5 into the lieback corner. The rope gets stuck, then pinched as you come around and if you're not careful (read: stupid) like me, you'll end up doing your awkward stem/chimney moves with heinous drag. Not exactly sure how to prevent it, maybe shove a shirt or sock or something in the crack as you come around the corner? (I'm only half kidding) It your rope does get stuck it takes away from enjoying a fantastic pitch.
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Nov 21, 2012
Kevin, I got the rope stuck in the corner on the FA. So bad that I was unable to move up and Josh, belaying, could not pull it down. Had to build an anchor mid pitch and rap to fix it. Now I put extra gear in the crack to fill the slot at the lip of the roof(extra in the small finger sizes), seems to work. Have contemplated a bolt.
|By Ryan Kirtland|
Feb 24, 2014
Pitches 3-6 were enjoyable, but the quality of pitch 2 detracted from the line. That pitch was dirty with plenty of loose rock. We took 3 offset tcus in the blue/yellow and yellow/orange size and used them on every pitch.