P-Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Rusty Garing, Chip Barclay '71 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Nosti on Jan 22, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Revised photo of P Wall. Note the added bolts and...
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Description The route follows the broken corner on the left side of P-wall up to the beginning of Impacted Stool Crack and then traverses right to the first bolt. I usually run it out to here but if you want protection, bring those hexes or large cams and long slings. After the bolt, the climb follows the crack up to the second bolt. Once clipped, traverse right and then up to the anchors. You can climb straight up after the second bolt but it's 5.10. This is a great route for learing trad and its fun if you continue up on Letterman to the next anchors and then scramble the rest of the way to the top of the peak.
Protection There are two bolts along the route and you will need gear starting from small to 2.5" Bring longs slings to extend your first couple pieces otherwise rope drag will have you crying.
Brian at the now "hanging" belay at the base of P-...
| Matt looking down P-Crack at Brian. Just before th...
| Aaron styling with the heel hook at the traverse, ...
| Coby heading up the classic P-Crack. Photo Tom Sla...
| Vickie grabs the lower rail at the crux of the cli...
| Getting ready to get into the crack.
| This would be a good pic if it weren't for the old...
| Vickie on the Letterman variation. Clip a bolt the...
| BETA PHOTO: Excerpt from 1978 Guide from Dwight Kroll.
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By Scott Bullock Feb 11, 2004 rating: 5.9-
| This is a very exciting lead. It is one of the best climbs on the hill. The crack is full of great holds and jams. It likes nuts at the start and medium to small cams as you move up. I once took a 15' whip onto a number 1 camalot placed below the first bolt, it held beautifully in the hard dysite. The traverse is the mental crux as you move out right, patience is the key as the holds are there. Fantastic exposure and well protected. Go climb it! |
By John Knight Feb 11, 2004 rating: 5.9-
| I've done this route a bunch of times. It's probably the best route on the entire P-wall. Although the crack is 5.8ish and takes a ton of gear, the traverse can be 5.9+. Sometimes it (the traverse) goes easy and feels like 5.8, other times it feels like 5.9+. This is a great route for a solid 5.9 leader. The crack sucks up gear and the traverse is protected by 2 solid bolts. If you get tired, you can just "French Free" the crux. Take the 5.6 upper pitch (a bit runout) to Letterman and enjoy the new anchor bolts! Rap the route (2 raps if you have a 60m rope) to get down. |
By Jon Hanlon From: SLO Oct 30, 2006 rating: 5.8+
| I noticed that the block at the base of the crack itself is gone. I am curious if it went by itself, or if it was persuaded. |
By Blake Sep 26, 2007
| I think that the big block fell off in a storm. We came back to after a small storm and the tree had fallen and the block was gone. The better question is where are the remnants of the block. |
By Christopher Alakel Oct 22, 2007
| I seriously doubt that a “small storm” would be capable for dislodging that large block. I climbed P-Crack not more than a few weeks after it was lamentably pried off with a crowbar. There were what appeared to be pry marks left just above where the block was attached. BTW: This is the editor’s overly PC revision/interpretation of my original comment (“lamentably”… please) |
By Jon Hanlon From: SLO Nov 2, 2007 rating: 5.8+
| I spoke to somebody who talked to the guy who pried the block off. Apparently the person thought he was doing everyone a favor. |
By Christopher Alakel Jan 2, 2008
| Please, NO more tinkering with P-Crack! It’s perfectly fine the way it is, no additional “improvements” necessary. If someone has that big of a problem with the new hanging belay, they can belay from the ground. Use a 60m and a few long runners. I’ve done it this way several times, not a problem. |
By Jon Hanlon From: SLO Jan 4, 2008 rating: 5.8+
| Relocating the anchor would alter four established lines and would NOT be a good idea. It should be left alone. |
By Rich Graziano From: Atascadero, CA Apr 27, 2008
| Leave it all as it is. There's nothing problematic with the bolt anchor. |
By Floyd Hayes Mar 22, 2010 rating: 5.9
| If climbing in two roped pitches, the first pitch felt more like easy class 5 (5.4?) than class 4 and is about 70' long, the second from the "hanging belay" is about 80'. It's a pity the first bolt of the crux is on the left side of the crack and so low, because it is easy to get a solid cam in the crack above the bolt, which obviates the need for the bolt; furthermore, the bolt would have been better placed well to the right of the crack to reduce the pendulum potential. The moves are there and may not be harder than 5.8, but they weren't all that obvious and it took me some time to figure out where they were, so it felt like 5.9 during my onsight lead. If rappelling from a 60 m (200 ft) rope, you can make it to the ground in a single rappel by rapping into the gully above and left of the base of the climb. |
By John Knight Jul 19, 2012 rating: 5.9-
| Re: "...crux traverse felt more like 5.9." I discovered there are two ways to do the "crux traverse". The "high traverse" or the "low traverse". To do the "high traverse", clip the 'bomber' 1/2" bolt, then step up the crack and place a red alien (or your cam of similar size) about 4' above the bolt. Then move right to grab the rail and do the traverse. You'll be well protected by your cam above the bolt but you will experience a harder "5.9-ish" crux. Once you make the traverse you should be standing at an easy spot to clip the 2nd bolt. To do the slightly easier "low traverse", clip the 1/2" bolt at the top of the crack then immediately move right with the bolt about waist height. After making the traverse, you'll need to step up to clip the 2nd bolt. I think this variation feels more like 5.8. Both of them are fun and both are reasonably protected by either a high cam or the first bolt. Have fun doing P-Crack. I think it's the best lead & best climb at Bishop Peak. |
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