|The Weasel Formation
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 440', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c A2- [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads)|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||2,385|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on May 3, 2004|
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Andy on the overhanging crack pitch 3
Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel. It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face. After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult. It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face.
P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a groove. Follow to anchors on top of a large flake. 100' C1 5.8.
P2) Climb the groove above, mostly a thin crack is climbed to near its top to a bolt. Move left to a small ledge, and then easy climbing to anchors in an alcove below the obvious overhanging crack. 70' C2 5.7.
P3) The crack is mostly 1.5 to 2 cams with some large near the top. Continue over the lip for about 20' to anchors 65' C2 5.8.
P4) Climb the groove and awkward placements past one bolt to anchors at the entrance to a chimney. 65' C2 5.8.
P5) Go up the chimney and then right onto the top of a pillar. One bolt up a short overhanging wall to natural belays. 60' C1 5.6.
P6) Easy climbing to the summit. 80' 5.4. The register is in cairn on the right hand summit.
F.A. Andy Ross Paul Ross (Alt Leads) May 3 2004
Descent: It would unwise to attempt to rap back down the route. From the top of the route go about 40' west to rap anchors. Do a short 50' rap to the shoulder. From here scramble down right(west) for about 150', and then back left to a big lower ledge to its end. Rap anchors are are 10' below the ledge directly above the light brown summit of the huge detached pillar that has a falcon head on the left side of the south face. Rap 160' to the west side base of the pillar, and then another 150' to the ground.
Double set of cams from alians's to Friends#6 Extras of 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5.Set of stoppers Two 60m ropes.
Oct 12, 2004
Note the description to this area in the Desert Rock Guide II is INCORRECT. Should read: From the San Rafael Bridge, go south for 6.1 miles(NOT 2.2) to a road on the right(west) with a cattle guard. Go 1 mile to a road on the right. Go 6/10 mile to a road on the left. Continue 1.8 miles to a campsite at the end of road. The path to the routes is up talus to the right.
Jun 18, 2010
No known second ascent as of June 2010
|By Joe Forrester|
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 24, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C2-
I went and rope-soloed this route this past week. Looked like the second ascent from the summit register. A couple of comments: the turn-off from the main road is 12.7 miles from I-70, helpful if you donít want to drive all the way to the bridge and back. Second, MAKE SURE AND GO RIGHT, not Left after a mile like it says in the original approach description. I believe Paulís first post has the correct direction. Second, when approaching the formation the easiest way (for me) was to go to the base of the Rooster and then traverse over to the tower. Cross cutting those slopes was not fun the first day. Third, one bolt is apparently missing from the first pitch (looked like it pulled out) necessitating placing gear on a VERY suspect, VERY large flake. Be careful. It looked like someone else had attempted the route to this point but had bailed. On pitch 2 there is also a very loose flake. Fourth, one of the two bolts on top of the 3rd pitch is wiggling out, doesnít look like it was placed very deep. Fifth, I rapped the route. Rapping the route was casual, however I fixed a line over the roof and I did leave a gear anchor at the top of pitch 5 for future parties. The cams I left are old and not ideal for free climbing so booty pirates beware. IF the first ascent party consents someone should add some bolts to the top of pitch 5.
The route is excellent and in a great setting, definitely worth the trip. The aiding is really pretty easy and no harder than C1, if you donít count the one loose flake that will likely rip-off on the next ascent. I would bet this route will go free at hard 5.11. I would also recommend a couple extra 0.75
Aug 14, 2011
Well done Joe ..great effort.
Jan 5, 2014
I soloed up the first pitch and put in a new bolt by the big, scary flake. I also tried to kick that flake off but it wouldn't budge. Maybe I was just scared to knock off that big of a rock but I have no idea how it is hanging on. It does make a nice ledge to stand on though. However, now that the bolt is there, all you really need to do is stand on it.