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Oz

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Commander Salamander Crack T,TR 
Commander Salamander Slab T,TR 
Dorothy T,TR 
Emerald City T,S 
Flying Monkey, The S,TR 
Lollipop Gang T,TR 
Man Behind the Curtain, The T,TR 
Munchkin T,TR 
Oil Can T,TR 
Oz Boulder 
Oz Chimney 
Oz Slab TR 
Ruby Slippers S 
Scarecrow S 
Tin Man T,TR 
Toto T,TR 
Yellow Brick Road S 

Oz 


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Location: 42.6181, -70.7266 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,081
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Dec 19, 2011
Forecast:
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Left face of Oz.

Description 

Oz is a great sport and trad area of Redrocks. Only 30 feet tall, it is short but sweet for slab and crack climbs. Also, it is a great alternative for when main crag is end to end with TRs. It is pretty shady here, but most of the rock dries pretty quick. TR anchors present fall of 2011.

There are also some awesome boulder problems that run across the top of this crag. Follow the trail marked with tape either from the left side of auntie em, or from the right side of the crag starting at oz boulder.

Oz

L->R:

Left Face
A. Commander Salamander Slab, 9, 1p, 25', TR.
B. Commander Salamander Crack, 6, 1p, 20', gear or TR.
C. Oz Slab, 11, 1p, 30', TR.
D. Emerald City, 7 PG-13, 1p, 25', bolt/gear.
E. Scarecrow, 9, 1p, 25', bolts.
F. Yellow Brick Road, 8+, 1p, 25', bolts.
G1. Ruby Slippers, 10+, 1[, 25', bolts.
G2. Tin Man, 8, 1p, 25', gear or TR.
H. Flying Monkey, 6, 1p, 20', bolts.

Center Arete

I. Munchkin, 9, 1p, 15', TR.
J. Oil Can, 11, 1p, 15', gear or TR.
K. Lollipop Gang, 8, 1p, 15', TR.

Right face
L. Dorothy, 6, 1p, 15', gear or TR.
M. Toto, 8, 1p, 20', gear and bolt.
N. Man Behind the Curtain, 6, 1p, 20', gear.

O. Oz Chimney, V0, 10'.

P. Oz Boulder, V1, 8'.

Close by to the north is the Down Under area.


Getting There 

Park in the same lot as if you were heading to Main Wall or Pink Floyd Wall from Redrock. Follow the main trail west along Route 128 from the parking lot until you pass the storage units. Turn north and go around the storage unit to get to the pipeline trail. Once on the pipe line, follow about 100 yards uphill until you see a tree stand in a tree 10 feet up on the right, Oz is about 50 feet in the woods to your left. It is approximately 1/3 mile from parking lot.

You can also get to Oz from main crag of Redrock by following the trail past the north end and Master's Wall east. It is approximately 150 yards.


Other Nearby Crags 

In the Redrock and vicinity area, there are a number of small crags. To facilitate the user finding these, they have been left in the hierarchy they were submitted which splits them into the general Massachusetts and North Shore / Cape Ann sections. To facilitate a better understanding of their relative locations, we'll list them North to South:

Down Under
nearby Plateau Boulder
Kong Boulder
Oz
Master's Wall
Redrock Main Crag
Pink Floyd Wall
Sunshine Wall

Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.
Redrocks Conservation Area... much more than just Main Wall and Pink Floyd Wall.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oz:
Tin Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Yellow Brick Road   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Scarecrow   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 25'   
Browse More Classics in Oz

Featured Route For Oz
Ruby Slippers.

Ruby Slippers 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  MA : Cape Ann : Oz
Move up to the arete just left of Tin Man. Follow the bolts straight up on thin features to TR anchors. Anything in the gully with the tree to the left is off....[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Photos of Oz Slideshow Add Photo
Looking right from Emerald City.
Looking right from Emerald City.
Oz center.
Oz center.
Park at the same lot as if you were heading to Main Wall or Floyd at Redrocks and follow the trail past the storage units. Follow a trail right around the storage units to the pipeline. walk about 100 yards up the hill and you will see Oz on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Park at the same lot as if you were heading to Mai...
Right face of Oz.
Right face of Oz.
This is a cool looking slab line Between Auntie Em and Emerald City. Looks like someone recently started scrubbing it...anyone?
This is a cool looking slab line Between Auntie Em...
Comments on Oz Add Comment
Show which comments
By jim.dangle
Nov 9, 2012
CONDITION REPORT 

This area needs a scrub. There is a lot of moss present on the climbs.

Also, I saw that someone had started clean the very licheny, largish slab on the far left hand side of the area. This looks promising.

Jim