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Oz

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East Face 
North Face 

Oz 


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Adam Winters, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Cameron on Sep 5, 2011
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Clear
60° | 41°
Clear
67° | 42°
Chance of Rain
54° | 31°
Partly Cloudy
51° | 34°
Clear
60° | 41°

Description 

What looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear.

You can hike around back to set TR's, but be careful getting to some of the anchors as you will right on the cliff edge.

A good place to escape the heat, but it can be frigidly cold when other crags are hot.


Getting There 

Follow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oz:
Dorothy's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad   East Face
Browse More Classics in Oz

Featured Route For Oz

Wicked Witch 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : North Face
Another line on the Oz formation that was originally done all-gear; this one has been fully retobolted. At least 3 of them are completely unnecessary IMO, as they are adjacent to a crack. A fun line regardless of the ethics.Face climbing up vertical layaway edges (crux) leads to a crack. Follow the discontinuous crack up and finish with more face climbing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Oz
News
Dec 4 Help Doctors Understand Climbing Injuries   5

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Comments on Oz Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Oct 1, 2012

A great shady spot for hot days, and good rock quality. No approach time, so don't forget the cooler and beer. Check out Dorothy's Crack 5.9 and The Wizard 5.11b for a welcome change from the usual 'Bama Hills clip-ups.