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What looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear.
Follow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view.
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Another line on the Oz formation that was originally done all-gear; this one has been fully retobolted. At least 3 of them are completely unnecessary IMO, as they are adjacent to a crack. A fun line regardless of the ethics.Face climbing up vertical layaway edges (crux) leads to a crack. Follow the discontinuous crack up and finish with more face climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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