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DescriptionWhat looks like a giant north and east facing boulder protruding out of the hillside offers several climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. There are a couple of moderate cracks here in addition to the classic 5.11 "The Wizard." It's bolted now, but the FA was done on gear. Getting ThereFollow Movie Road to the T-intersection (you can no longer go straight). Hang a right and drive into and then out of a large drainage. Right before the road makes a prominent left hand turn, hang another right onto a spur road. If you have a nice car, park here and walk about 5-10 minutes down the road to the crag. Oz will be obvious when it comes into view. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oz:
Dorothy's Crack 5.9 Trad East Face
Wicked Witch 5.11a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet North Face
The Wizard 5.11b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet East Face
Featured Route For Oz
Another line on the Oz formation that was originally done all-gear; this one has been fully retobolted. At least 3 of them are completely unnecessary IMO, as they are adjacent to a crack. A fun line regardless of the ethics.Face climbing up vertical layaway edges (crux) leads to a crack. Follow the discontinuous crack up and finish with more face climbing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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