Todd Gordon on the first ascent of "Re-Todd Gordum...
The OZ Area encompasses OZ proper as well as the Hollywood Area and Magic Mountain Area. Approaches vary from crag to crag, with some some offering roadside cragging and others reached after a 30-45 minute walk. Some of the crags require hiking over rough and rocky terrain to reach, and ticks can be present in the washes at certain times of the year.
The lower elevation and mix of roadside and remote crags make this a good bet to escape the crowds of the western part of the Park as well as another alternative for those cold days.
There are two main parking spots used to access the OZ area and both are located north of the Pinto Wye (the intersection of the main road and the road that heads to Cottonwood and I-10).
The southern parking area is in a turnout 1.4 miles north of Pinto Wye and 3.5 miles south of the North Entrance (29 Palms gate). This is used to access the Munchkinland Area - No Place Like Dome, Voodoo Dome, Munchkinland Crag and more. No Place Like Dome is the obvious dark formation visible from the road, while the other formations lie strewn about the rugged hills and washes of the area.
The northern parking area is .3 miles north of the southern parking area at a pullout with an exhibit. The mileages are 1.7 north of the Pinto Wye and 3.2 miles south of the North Entrance. This is used to access the Valley Of The Voices, Poppy Field Boulders, Emerald City and the Hollywood Area. Walk straight west from the parking area, passing along the edge of a low hillside, and then enter a huge wash which is followed slightly uphill to the various areas. Valley Of Voices lies up the first side canyon on the left; Emerald City is up the second, past the Poppy Field Boulders; Hollywood is reached by continuing up the wash past a rocky section until you reach a large open valley with some attractive formations.
This is the attractive crack that splits the left side of the wall and passes through a flared section midway up. A must do route if in the area, this features steep and clean jamming with great gear. One of the recommended crack lines in the area along with Baby Rattler and Snake Book. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I've been back in the OZ area twice now, once in cold winter conditions and once in warmer, and have found numerous ticks on clothing, backpacks, etc both times. Though I have not seen them, lots of evidence (poop, tracks, thriving tick populations) suggests that these washes and hillsides are inhabited by bighorn sheep, deer, and coyotes. Enjoy the solitude and keep this beautiful place as wild as you found it.