Oyster  5.10a

2,239 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  saxfiend on Mar 5, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Brad K. on Oyster.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

The intimidation factor on this nice sport route is the big roof near the top. If you're smart, you'll use the spacious ledge about half-way up to regain some energy for the pumpy finish.

Climb the steep face on good holds past three bolts to a ledge. Trend left, following the bolted line, then move right to a roof. A well-placed bolt protects the final moves to pull the roof on nice jugs.

NOTE: Oyster is the subject of some confusion with neighboring routes on the south side of Holiday block. In the Dixie Cragger's Atlas, the listing for Gravy Train actually describes Oyster, while the listing for Oyster should be labeled as Rabies (5.11a). Some consider Oyster a retrobolt of the trad line Gravy Train, but the two climbs, while close in proximity, are separate routes with distinctly different climbing character.

Location 

Starts at the left end of the south side of Holiday Block, just right of Gravy Train. Lower off/rap from anchors.

Protection 

Eight bolts; ring anchors at the top.

Photos of Oyster Slideshow

Add Photo

Oyster.	Cory Brewster topping out Oyster.	Oyster.
My first time on the climb