|Morning Glory Wall
This devious line doesn't have the same stunning appearance as other Smith classics, but if you like challenging movement in a relatively secluded location, this route has a lot to offer.
Often described as, 'girl climbing', this route requires excellent balance and technical skills, but not as much power as other Smith 13s. The cruxes involve sequential liebacking maneuvers, and at times it may feel more like you're climbing a crack than a face.
Though quite short, this route is difficult the entire way.
Immediately right of Da Kine Corner, begin at the same spot on the boulder, but begin by traversing to the right, then up into the right-most bolt line.
Bolts. Use a stick clip for the first bolt.
|By Aimee Rose|
From: Bend, or
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
If Churning is 13a then this is 13b for sure. That's what it's rated in the newest Smith guidebook.
|By Mike Dalby|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Perhaps the route has been retro-bolted, but I've found that I can easily reach the first bolt while standing on the boulder and don't use a stick clip. I'm by no means a tall man (more of a man-boy).
That being said, it wouldn't hurt if it's your first time scrambling up to the top of the boulder, and I definitely wouldn't fault someone for stick clipping every time. An accidental fall off the left side of the boulder would be fairly catastrophic.
|By Jon Rhoderick|
Dec 24, 2013
First thoughts on this route:
Like most routes at smith described as technical or "girly?", I didn't find the route devoid of powerful moves. The crux hits between bolts two and four, working up a large but sloped side pull feature. From the 4th bolt up the climbing is 12- resistance climbing until you reach glory jugs. There might only one okay rest hold on the entire route. Compared to Dakine the route is shorter with a slightly harder crux and less rest, but the holds are nicer on the fingers.