|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006|
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By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
|If Churning is 13a then this is 13b for sure. That's what it's rated in the newest Smith guidebook.|
By Mike Dalby
From: Bend, OR
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Perhaps the route has been retro-bolted, but I've found that I can easily reach the first bolt while standing on the boulder and don't use a stick clip. I'm by no means a tall man (more of a man-boy).
That being said, it wouldn't hurt if it's your first time scrambling up to the top of the boulder, and I definitely wouldn't fault someone for stick clipping every time. An accidental fall off the left side of the boulder would be fairly catastrophic.
By Jon Rhoderick
Dec 24, 2013
First thoughts on this route:
Like most routes at smith described as technical or "girly?", I didn't find the route devoid of powerful moves. The crux hits between bolts two and four, working up a large but sloped side pull feature. From the 4th bolt up the climbing is 12- resistance climbing until you reach glory jugs. There might only one okay rest hold on the entire route. Compared to Dakine the route is shorter with a slightly harder crux and less rest, but the holds are nicer on the fingers.