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 ADVANCED
The Capstan
Select Route:
Just Right 
Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 
South Crack 
Trough Direct SDS, The 
West Face [The Capstan] TR 

Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Xander Oxman
Page Views: 1,165
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.

This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.

Location 

This lies on the Capstan Boulder next to Just Right.

Protection 

Use Le Crash Pad.


Comments on Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) Add Comment
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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 10, 2011
rating: V10 7C+

Sandbag at V9, definitely V10.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 15, 2011
rating: V10 7C+



This video shows an ascent of Just Right Direct from the shelf and an ascent of Daydreamer Direct.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Mar 15, 2011

Thanks for the videos, Peter.
By Elliott Bates
Mar 17, 2013
rating: V9 7C

I found an alternate way to do this arete, which I found to be easier than matching on the crimp rail. Same start, but then from the slopy left hand dish low on the problem, I bump my right hand 2x to a good pinch (Peter uses this hold as a left hand crimp gaston in the vid). Then a cool move up and left to a small positive LH sidepull. Right heel and right hand goes to crimp rail, toss left to "just right" dish. Really cool movement this way and not awkward.
By Cesar Valencia
Nov 9, 2013
rating: V10 7C+

Tried this again today and still agree with Peter. This is sandbag at V9. Besides the crimps being terrible, the problem is quite awkward. I would say it's V10. I'm hoping to finish it off soon.