Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9
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Description Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.
This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.
Location This lies on the Capstan Boulder next to Just Right.
Protection Use Le Crash Pad.
| Comments on Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) |
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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 10, 2011
rating: V10
| Sandbag at V9, definitely V10. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Mar 15, 2011
rating: V10
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This video shows an ascent of Just Right Direct from the shelf and an ascent of Daydreamer Direct. |
By Elliott Bates
Mar 17, 2013
rating: V9
| I found an alternate way to do this arete, which I found to be easier than matching on the crimp rail. Same start, but then from the slopy left hand dish low on the problem, I bump my right hand 2x to a good pinch (Peter uses this hold as a left hand crimp gaston in the vid). Then a cool move up and left to a small positive LH sidepull. Right heel and right hand goes to crimp rail, toss left to "just right" dish. Really cool movement this way and not awkward. |
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