Owls Head Mountain Rock Climbing
View of the cliff before turning right down draina...
|Private Property, hiking and climbing tolerated|
A nice little nob that has some great views, relaxed ambiance, and some nice clean (albeit short/easy) crack climbs right at the summit. The vantage point here may be the best part...as one is climbing on the cliff they can expect great views of Pitchoff, Cascade, Hurricane, and Giant mountains. A very popular hiking trail, so expect some curious glances when you top out on the summit.
Rock is clean for the most part, a little lichen here and there to keep things interesting. Top-roping may be done with prodigious use of static line (trees are far back), or by building a gear anchor.
Given the sunny exposure, I can imagine warm rock climbing can take place here well into the early winter and in the spring.
Park at Owl's Head Lane, located 3.1 miles from the 73/9 intersection (driving from Keene to Lake Placid), on the left. Park at a side road a short distance up the road, next to the trail sign. A quick mile to the summit, and a gully on the right becomes prominent just before the actual summit. The cliff base is down this gully.
Climbing Season For the Keene Region area.
Weather station 8.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Owls Head Mountain
Peckers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c NY
: ... : Owls Head Mountain
Attempting to keep feet dry, climb the finger crack in the corner and traverse right a step or two under the overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) and climb either or both of the parralel cracks above to the 4th class terrain below the summit. Scramble the remaining 20ft to the top. (first ascent stemmed both cracks due to them being filled with dirt, moss and trees. once clean it may be possible to climb either crack). It is possible to build an anchor directly over climb, but far back from the c...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
BETA PHOTO: Bigger view of the cliffs, not my photo, taken fro...
Pano of Owls Head in October
BETA PHOTO: Easy 10 minute hike leads to this cliff, do not be...
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Oct 21, 2013
Great beginner's crag with nice views, clean cracks, and relatively easy top ropes (30' of static line is useful for the climbs on the left side).
This could probably be lumped in with the other High Peaks climbing areas.