Owens River Gorge 

This is probably my favorite sport-climbing area. The characteristic climbs feature endurance vertical edge pulling (with a lot of pockets) -- gym fitness really pays off here. There are enough decent trad climbs to keep you honest.

One note of caution is that walking by the river exposes one to some extremely potent stingy nettles, the buzz from which can last many hours; learn to identify and avoid these or wear long pants and socks.

The locals have put a lot of time, money and effort into really setting this place up with trails, bridges, belay platforms and drop in anchors. Please repay their generosity by taking care of what they've created. In particular, DON'T TOPROPE DIRECTLY THROUGH THE ANCHORS. Despite the fact that heavy-duty steel anchors are used, many are worn almost all the way through (some all the way). This dangerous state of affairs is primarily caused by toproping directly through the anchors which is completely avoidable -- whoever sets up the rope should clip a quickdraw through each anchor and run the rope through the draws; the last person up then puts the rope directly through the anchors, cleans the draws and lowers, or even better, rappels.

I just took my first trip here. I wanted to praise Marty Lewis for releasing a superb guide (imho). I found it very clear, concise, and ontop of the area.

I consider myself a climbing geek, and fairly well-travelled. This guide was probably one of the better organised guides I have ever used, and well worth the money.

Nice job sir.

Many routes are LONG; if you bring a 60 or less, plz tie a knott. I've witnessed several deckings over the years from 'short' ropes. Best bet is a 70m or longer.

Here is a list of links on climbing & other recreation in Owens River Gorge and nearby.

• Owens River Conservation & Recreation Directory. (1=whitewater, 2=rafting, 3=conservation, 4=fishing, 5=climbing-camping-hiking, 6=local-info)

Is ORG climbable Nov-Feb?

ORG is climbable year round. On the colder winter months watch out for ice on the steep central descent. You can find spots in the sun on really cold days.

How is climbing here during summer months of June, July, and August? Are there north/east facing walls? Walls with shade in the morning and change to different wall with shade in evening? Thanks...

I spent a good part of July and August in the Gorge for two summers in a row when I first got into climbing- you can definitely climb there, but you for sure want to stay in the shade because it will be brutally hot in the sun. The Gorge runs roughly North-South, and there are some walls that face Northish (Gorgeous Towers for one), so you can typically find shade on one side or the other throughout the day.

Amazing training area to get stronger. There are so many variations of climbing here. Some of the best climbing is even through the winter. Bachars stomping grounds!

I've never been to ORG before. Thinking of heading there this weekend, temperatures in Bishop are in the mid-50s. Is it worth going given the cold temps? Any beta on which walls tend to see sun?

@Thomas Bukowski
Temps in the 50's will be fine in the sun. Warm Up wall and Banana Belt in the morning, China wall, Dilithium or Warning Signs in the afternoon. Days are really short down there right now and it'll probably be real messy after all the rain/snow we had this week.

By Jonathan Howland
Mar 22, 2012
Anyone have info. about the new route just right of Funky Cole Patina at Penstock?

jhowland@urbanschool.org

About that new route on the Penstock Wall... Kelly and I put that in last year. Very fun! Pretty easy 10a. Can be done w/70m, but better as two pitches. !st: short, 5.8 crack, 3 bolts. 2nd: steep face w/ mondo buckets after the crux, 12 bolts. Upper holds are really good!
Derik (derikolson@gmail.com)

@ derik olson, the 2 pitch route on Penstock Rock you said you and kelly did is super fun, i must be a sandbegger, i thought it was 5.8 the whole climb, good job guy's really like it happy climbing mike a.