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Overnight Sensation 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: John Wolfe & Rob Stahl, 11/70, FFA: (TR) Rick Cashner and Don Reid., 1979, FL: Dave Mayville et al, 8/90
Page Views: 1,454
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jun 25, 2007
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Going big past the 3rd bolt...

Description 

On the Northeast Face, climb up face and cracks past the left side of a big brown scoop. At the right side of another brown scoop, a crack leans up and right. Follow this past a diagonal slash. Move right past a bolt to another right leaning crack and up.


Protection 

4 bolts, gear to 2.5". 2 bolt anchor/rap



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"Overnight Sensation". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Overnight Sensation".
Photo by Blitzo.
"Over-nite Sensation" is an album by Frank Zappa, released in 1973. This album has inspired many route names, world-wide.
"Over-nite Sensation" is an album by Frank Zappa, ...
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 17, 2009

Where is the crux on this one?

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

up high, imho, but the whole route is pretty interesting. i just hope that choss at the bottom stays there, otherwise, the route could get harder off the ground.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

How is it that there is not a line all the time to climb this thing?

Stellar sustained climbing with good pro, 4 bolts, set of TCU's, a #1 & #2 camelot to a bolted anchor. The crux is from the third bolt up to the belay and I think its 5.11a to get to the cave.

By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 20, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Rick Cashner and Don Reid did the FFA as a top rope in 1979. This was put up ground up by Dave Mayville over 4 days, August 1990 with Jodee Jondas, Mark Boline and Todd Gordon in on the ascent. This was an aid climb "Ajax" by John Wolfe, Rob Stahl 11/70 according to Randy's west side guide book.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 6, 2012

This thing is super good! Big pulls on positive holds, way rad. Very close to the perfect climb. Durr is right, considering how close this is to the campground it's surprising how little traffic it sees.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

+1 for an awesome thought provoking climb! Another classic j-tree .11. Feels true to the grade and protects well. Bolts are a little "loose" but in decent condition. The upper portion past the last bolt has some very interesting sequential moves that will keep you coming back to this climb. I protected the move off of the ledge with a blue tcu just above the exit on the left. Perfect fit.

By Richard Shore
Dec 19, 2012

A bit grainy to be considered a true classic, but an excellent line nonetheless. Crux is definitely passing the last bolt.

By Tradoholic
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Really fun! The choss is over quick and leads into great moves. Protects well.