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After bouldering all across the country this remains perhaps my very favorite problem. It is both technical and powerful and involves a greater variety of holds and movements than most boulders.
An amazing boulder problem involving crazy beta and full body fitness. Start under the lowest roof in the back of the cave on two hueco pockets in the roof with fairly poor feet but they are there. A few choices here but most people end up in a bat-hang in the wide crack then switch to a heel-toe-cam and make a cool move to the lip of the roof. The holds at the lip seem bad but feel good when you are on them. Sink your fingers in to the crack and pull the last crux getting out from under the roof to better holds and the top.
A really fun climb. Beta intensive.
the nice roof facing the marsh...
have a good spotter and a few pads...
From: Portland, ME
Oct 22, 2008
Bathang, scrunch, heel-toe, fingerlock, knee bar.
Meh. This thing is OK. I don't understand all the love it gets.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 22, 2008
haha... thats funny... those are some of my favorite moves...
it is more of a really short trad climb than a boulder problem... haha...
|By Russ Keane|
Sep 26, 2013
This climb is a BLAST. It's so freaking cool.
|By J Meagher|
Nov 11, 2013
rating: V4 6B
Sent after a few tries today, such a GREAT route! I love how its not a stereotypical boulder problem, core and leg strength are far more important than being able to pull hard on small holds. Interestingly, all the cruxes on this are foot moves, not hand moves. By far the most unique climb I've ever been on. Seriously, where else can you find a mandatory double toe-hook bat hang, fingerlocks, a double hueco, heel-toe cams, and a mandatory kneebar in just 10 feet of climbing? Im gonna guess no where else in New Hampshire