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 ADVANCED
Poland Hill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ape Walk T 
Bear Voo, The T 
Bistro, The 
Boulder Hopper T 
Clean and Jerk T 
Cool Jet T,TR 
Cumulus 
Estrogen Patch Remover T 
Fantasia T 
Green With Envy T 
Kim T 
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 
Orbital Ridge T,TR 
Overload T 
Petit Crapon T 
Piece of Dirt S 
Remote Control T 
Skull T 
Soul of a Poet 
Southwest Friction S 
Stem Christie T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sweet Finish T 
Tanfasia T 
to be deleted - Boulder Hop - duplicate T 
Toadstool 
Underachiever  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Overload 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,449
Submitted By: Tony B on May 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: Midway up.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the left side of Poland Hill as the Rat Brain sits to the right. On that left side, a stack of 4 large features is split down the center by a slightly right-leaning thin hands crack that goes vertical then curves gracefuly to left leaning as it passes each of 3 horizontal cracks/bulges to reach a slot up top (5 feet long) and a slab on the left abover that. Climb this surprisingly good system to the top of the slab to a crappy fixed anchor.. Belay here with a back up on your gear.

To exit, top out back behind you (all of the way) and walk over toward the base of the rat brain, just below the climbs Fantasia and Kim.

This route is the left-most prominant crack system in the attached photo.

Protection 

Good gear from 1.5-4, getting progressively larger on the way up. Perhaps take extra 2.5-3.5" pcs.


Photos of Overload Slideshow Add Photo
Poland Hill - SE Side and The Rat Brain.
BETA PHOTO: Poland Hill - SE Side and The Rat Brain.
An unknown climber 'Overloads (5.9)' at Vedauvoo. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
An unknown climber 'Overloads (5.9)' at Vedauvoo. ...
Pics of the newish anchor to the climber's right after exiting the chimney @ the top.
BETA PHOTO: Pics of the newish anchor to the climber's right a...

Comments on Overload Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sam Lowe
Jul 9, 2004

The climbing was completely enjoyable; from the hand crack at the start to pulling the roof at the exit.

However, belaying from an anchor in the shallow horizontal to the left of the crack makes for a dangerous last move for the follower. Does anyone have any hints?
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Maybe the anchors have changed since the last post, we did not have any problems leading and TR'ing the route. Anyway, I was wondering what side (right/left) most people entered the last roof. I went left side in first when leading and felt like I was going to fall out. My buddy finished the lead and I TR'd it going right side in first, fealing much better. Just wondering if anybody had any thoughts.
By Johan Grahnen
From: Palo Alto, CA
May 4, 2008

Right side in felt fine to me -- decent feet. The sideways chimneying afterward was a hoot, too.