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Overhangutang 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Griz
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,618
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Jun 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Good route, good photo (by Leo), adequate groin, m...

Description 

This route climbs the slightly overhanging corner that is above the large, horizontal roof, inside the big dihedral. Climb up easy ground in the large, left-facing corner and stem at the horizontal roof to clip the first bolt (on the right wall). Climb the inside corner, past 5 bolts, to the roof lip, sharing the final bolt with The Exfoliator. Pull the roof, and run 25' up easy terrain to the chain anchor.


Location 

Follow a large, inside corner up off the slab.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchor on the face.



Photos of Overhangutang Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Perkins on Overhangutang. <br /> <br />Photo by Lyle Knudson.
Chris Perkins on Overhangutang.

Photo by Lyle Knu...
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 14, 2011

Trust the slopers and the feet. It is easier than it looks. It sort of reminds me of an warmup for Supersqueeze. Fun.

By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Aug 25, 2011

A key block in the final moves below the roof, on the inside corner, is loose. We may try to epoxy the small block in as it is a critical part of the route. Pull on it with ease.

By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of July 8 2012, some baby birds have taken up residence in the last (key) hold making the route a bit harder before you step around right at the top. It is still climbable, but you get a pinch at the top rather than a jug. They will fledge later this summer leaving the route to us again.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Jun 27, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

SAFETY WARNING:

Be very careful top roping this climb. The rope leading down to the follower naturally falls over a sharp edge. If the follower falls at the end of the hang, the rope can slide against that sharp edge. This is true lowering the climber as well, and in fact our rope suffered a core shot because of this.

If a bolt was added over the side of the overhang, this problem would be mitigated. Consider this a request to the first ascentionist to add that bolt. I would only add the bolt out-of-reach of the move to pull the hang and off to the right as to keep the character of the climb the same.