This is one of the most difficult routes at the crag, and also the best route.
You start up very featured rock to the first bolt, which is on the underside of the overhang. A powerful move with your left hand to a pocket is followed by an even more physical move with your right hand blindly around the arete. There are a few series of edges and crimps you can use to bump your right hand high and move your feet up. From there, it's another long move to an obvious jug on the top of the overhang (short people may have a problem with this move). The beginning is definitely the hardest part of the climb, and once you get over the first overhang, you can stand on a big ledge for as long as you need.
After that, it's a pretty easy climb up and over another roof. To get over the roof, you can go around to the right, where you'll encounter a series of crimpy holds. Some people may find it's easier to go straight up the overhang, and this can be a spot for some crowd-pleasing heel hooks and mantels.
If you're looking at the cliff (back to the ocean), its the second route/set of bolts from the far left side.
The overhang should be obvious.
Good bolts all the way up. The first bolt is a bit of a tough clip (I've seen a fall before making the first clip).
|By Mark Orsag|
Feb 4, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
Went straight over the 2nd roof/overhang. One of the two best routes at this crag.