|Black Velvet Wall
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This two pitch gem finishes through the right side of the giant roof between Fiddler on the Roof and Sour Mash. A great day ender.From the bench at the base of the Black Velvet Wall, under the right side of the roof (base of Sour Mash), scramble up and left (3rd class) to belay at a bush. Pitch 1 goes up and right from here, following a line of bolts (with supplemental gear) to a two bolt anchor. Continuous balancy edging, a super pitch.Pitch two goes up and right again, up a crack and out through the huge roof (3 bolts), to a two bolt rap anchor.The size of the roof makes the .10a grade seem dubious, but have faith. Super position and exposure for a two pitch route!A 200ft rap brings you back to the top of the 3rd class, WATCH THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES! Not sure about single rope rappel option?NOTES: A)You could continue up Fiddler on the Roof, this start would bypass the scary roof traverse on that route.B)This route is described in the Supertopo guidebook, but not the Swain book. However, it may be aka Early Times, or share ground with that route.
Mostly bolts, but take a rack to about a #1 camalot. Two 60M ropes to rap.
May 27, 2004
I climbed this route on May 17th, and thought it was good/fun. However, I do have a few questions regarding the "local" standard, and such. Unfortunately, my partner was nursing a set of injuries sustained from the previous two days of climbing, and after seconding the 1st pitch, had decided to listen to the pain, and call it a day... but like awesome partners are inclined to do, he graciously allowed me to tick the 2nd pitch, which I climbed to the "hanging" fixed belay at the end of the main roof/line. It seemed like an uncomfortable spot to bring up your second anyway, is this what most folks do?
While there, I noticed some fixed gear, and another fixed belay, working to the right side (about 20ft), but still under part of the tiered roof. However, the major "Z" in the rope created debilitating drag, and there was just no way... is this fixed belay part of Early Times, or if another route, which one?
Having descended off of the Fiddler on the Roof raps before, I wanted to continue to that fixed belay (the one above the roof), but really couldn't determine the "go up"... does one climb more, or less straight up from the "lower" anchor to reach the one above the roof? That one (rope drag permitting) would seem like a much better spot to bring up seconds? Does Early Times lead up from there instead?
Also, got to do the one-pitch sport route to the right of Overhanging Hangover, which was good fun too... Is there a name for that one?
Lastly, has anyone (surly they have) led the crack system defining the left side of the arch, across, and underneath the roof, to some exit on the other (right) side?
Thanks in advance for any beta.
My two-cents: The 1st pitch of OH, and the route to the right, are thin face climbs (respective of their ratings), on grayish stone, that take somewhat wandering lines reminiscent of the Gobbler's 1st pitch... it's somewhat different stuff than the abundantly-featured brown edge fests, or periodic varnished sections on the main wall proper... and of coarse, the roof on the 2nd pitch of OH, with it's sideways "walk the plank" exposure is even more unique. As the amount of chalk suggests: worthy, good stuff!
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 8, 2004
ASCA Update 3/04: 'Two bolts replaced on first pitch, one extra bolt removed.'
|By chad umbel|
Jan 1, 2006
Climbed this route in Janruary of 05. Both pitches are quite fun. First pitch pretty thin with sustained climbing once you reach the main face.
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Apr 9, 2007
It had a cool first pitch that was poop free. Second pitch would have been good if it weren't for all that poop! Third crux roof pitch (20ft) was not scary.
Worth doing if you're in the area, but not something to seek out IMO (all that POOP!).
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
Unlike many of it's neighbors to the left, this route has a very slick and varnished first pitch. Ascend using broken scallops clipping a pretty tightly bolted line. To make it easier on the 2nd pitch leader abort the set of Fixe rap rings and anchor and head right past 1 last bolt (painted black) to set of chains directly below the crack of the 2nd pitch. The painted bolt between the two anchors is unnecessary and can easily be back cleaned to avoid drag of bringing up your partner.
Second pitch finger/hand crack was friendly except for one particular bolt which was difficult to clip/clean as you have to abandon what is a large triangular foot hold and make another move to clip/clean. Not hard just seemed silly to have to leave such a great stance.
As others have stated, the 2nd pitch provides some lovely dirt/bird-poop mixture for your pleasure.
Traversing the roof looks ominous from the ground as the roof crack seems very thin. I was not disappointed as.... the roof crack is extremely thin. 3 bolts protect the traverse with a pretty tricky move mid-way using tips.
I suspect there is never a line on this route - but fun and quick to do while waiting on other lines.
Rap using (2) 60' ropes
Mar 18, 2008
We must climb too many bat/pigeon/swallow shit-filled cracks of Smith since I did not notice anything but pristine rock on this :) ? Thought it was a great if short line.
|By Chad Kuhlman|
From: Fort Collins
Apr 21, 2008
This climb is a really fun short outing worth doing, but I would agree that the bird crap all over the second pitch did take away from some of the really enjoyable movement.
From: las vegas, nv
Sep 30, 2008
This route has potential to be a stellar two pitch route based on situation, rock quality and variety of moves if it were not for all the friggin' poop!!!! The first pitch was good quality with out the "poop" factor. Fun face climbing, edging and smearing lead up to the first belay.
After reading previous comments and viewing previous photos of the route, it seems to me that this route has acquired a lot more substantial amount of crap deposits. The second pitch starts out immediately with crap every where. After a couple face moves, you gain the crack which could be superb except, I had to constantly brush out literally inches of piled crap in order to get hand/foot holds and place gear. After probably 40 or so feet of this, the poop runs out and the climb turns back to the awesome climb that it should be. The last section up to the roof and traversing under the roof leaves you smiling and forgetting about all the poop........for a short time.......damn!!
|By Richard Shore|
Sep 30, 2010
bird crap. every decent edge, ldge, and hold is covered in it. The smell is disgusting. Otherwise fun, thin face route!
|By Phil Esra|
Apr 25, 2011
the 2nd pitch is my favorite 5.10 pitch in Red Rock. worth the poop!