|VD (Very Direct) Wall
Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the aręte past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from aręte to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Route (5.8).
9 bolts, bolted chain anchor
Rocket Man cruising the aggregate middle section o...
Starting up the arete of Overhanger
|By Eamon Doyle|
From: La Canada, CA
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
As of 1/3/2012, I recommend bringing a stick clip for the first clip if you aren't solid on 5.9+ climbs. The clip is just high enough that a spot isn't all that helpful and the fall is onto uneven rock.
May 6, 2013
May deserve a PG13 rating for the first bolt. We onsight most 5.9 sport and were comfortable with the first clip. Just beware if you sometimes struggle with 5.9 that the first clip will be scary.
Very fun moves getting to and through the roof/overlap (also very beta specific). Face climbing on the aggregate above was fun, with the conglom rocks being more solid than they look.
From: Acton, California
Oct 3, 2013
Do not fall on the crux; you will land on the ledge. First clip didn't bother me; just the crux! Took a lead fall and sprained my ankle and had to hike out on it-not fun.
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
The arete part is really good climbing.
First bolt doesn't seem to be any higher than usual and you have great hands. I would call it 5.7 moves up until right before clipping the 3rd bolt. There it felt little cruxy.
Fun route with good variety of climbing! Really enjoyed it.
And has all new hardware :-)