Login with Facebook
VD (Very Direct) Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arched Demon S 
Follower’s Folly T,S 
Lower Bolt Route S 
Overhanger S 
Reqiuem S 
Rupert The Bear S 
Rurp Rip-off S 
Slot Machine T,S 
Spike the Punch S 
Tenacious S 
Tree Corner T,S 
Upper Bolt Route S 
Velcro S 
Water Cracks T,S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,536
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chad Parker stepping onto the overhang. The first ...


Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the aręte past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from aręte to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Route (5.8).


9 bolts, bolted chain anchor

Photos of Overhanger Slideshow Add Photo
Rocket Man cruising the aggregate middle section o...
Rocket Man cruising the aggregate middle section o...
Rocket Man working the crux.
Rocket Man working the crux.
Starting up the arete of Overhanger
Starting up the arete of Overhanger
Chad Parker on the over hang of overhanger.
Chad Parker on the over hang of overhanger.

Comments on Overhanger Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eamon Doyle
From: Sierra Madre, CA
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

As of 1/3/2012, I recommend bringing a stick clip for the first clip if you aren't solid on 5.9+ climbs. The clip is just high enough that a spot isn't all that helpful and the fall is onto uneven rock.
By NeilSutherlandME
May 6, 2013

May deserve a PG13 rating for the first bolt. We onsight most 5.9 sport and were comfortable with the first clip. Just beware if you sometimes struggle with 5.9 that the first clip will be scary.

Very fun moves getting to and through the roof/overlap (also very beta specific). Face climbing on the aggregate above was fun, with the conglom rocks being more solid than they look.
By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Oct 3, 2013

Do not fall on the crux; you will land on the ledge. First clip didn't bother me; just the crux! Took a lead fall and sprained my ankle and had to hike out on it-not fun.
By Petr
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The arete part is really good climbing.
First bolt doesn't seem to be any higher than usual and you have great hands. I would call it 5.7 moves up until right before clipping the 3rd bolt. There it felt little cruxy.
Fun route with good variety of climbing! Really enjoyed it.
And has all new hardware :-)
By Ethan Bridwell 1
From: littlerock CA
Apr 20, 2015

i think its a really easy first clip but you definitely have to climb to get to it, bolts are super solid, one of the best moderate climbs in the park.if you really wanted to you could top rope it by walking up a ramp to the far right of arched arched demon.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!