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Rocket Man working the crux.
Start just left of the big cave in the center of VD wall. Climb the aręte past three bolts to an overlap. The crux is passing the 4th bolt, as you surmount the overlap to continue up the aggregate face; a nice transition move from aręte to headwall but the aggregate yields fairly sustained climbing for the grade. Take the seam up and right to the ledge, then move left and up the final headwall on easier slab to chain anchors. Rappel to descend or move right and climb Upper Bolt Route (5.8).
9 bolts, bolted chain anchor
Rocket Man cruising the aggregate middle section o...
Starting up the arete of Overhanger
|By Eamon Doyle|
From: La Canada, CA
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 R
As of 1/3/2012, I recommend bringing a stick clip for the first clip if you aren't solid on 5.9+ climbs. The clip is just high enough that a spot isn't all that helpful and the fall is onto uneven rock.
May 6, 2013
May deserve a PG13 rating for the first bolt. We onsight most 5.9 sport and were comfortable with the first clip. Just beware if you sometimes struggle with 5.9 that the first clip will be scary.
Very fun moves getting to and through the roof/overlap (also very beta specific). Face climbing on the aggregate above was fun, with the conglom rocks being more solid than they look.