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Jon Tashkin on one way to do P1. Start above the ...
Another quality McGregor Slab outing. Although it is named for the prominent overhang on the left center of the face, it is quite possible to do the route without grappling with this feature. Start well left of the center of the face at the highest point of the base of the slab.
1) Start off a sharp flake and up a short face and right-facing dihedral to a small ledge, 150 ft. 5.6.
2) Wander up through dihedrals and arches a bit right to the big ledge below the overhang, 100 ft. 5.5.
3) Like most McGregor routes, several options are possible here;
- a) straight up into the imposing overhang, 5.7. Although not to be intimidated as one does not pull over the overhang so much as sidle left through a notch to easier climbing above.
- b) Traverse down and left around the overhang and back up right to easier ground.
- c) Steeper options through the overhand beckon to the right.
4) Much easier climbing moves up and right under another arching overhang and a belay around its end, 150+ ft. 5.4.
From here, one can go straight up to the top on easy terrain or traverse left along a ledge system and descend the gully on the left side. The second option is shorter than going over the top but involves some 4th class downclimbing or a rappel into the gully. The left gully is also more of a tree-clogged bushwhack than the right side descent.
Standard rack with emphasis on small gear.
Lost in a sea of overhangs and arches. Typical Mc...
The steeper right option through the overhang on t...
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 14, 2007
You can start with P1 of Camel Toe and then angle left to add another 240' of climbing to get ~900' of climbing. Note, this climb joins the end of Lubrication's P3.