| Overhang Area |
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Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
Description This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.
Getting There Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.
L->R: A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.
I. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
U. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X1. Hell Raiser, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
X2. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Y. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
BB. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
CC. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
DD. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
EE. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
FF. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
GG. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
HH. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
II. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
JJ. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Overhang Area:
Off Line 5.8 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For Overhang Area
BETA PHOTO
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Sun setting on the rocks.
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Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
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Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...
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A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Gree...
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#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber an...
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Signs of spring showing up.
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Info on this sector.
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| Comments on Overhang Area |
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By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2002
| 46, whatever it is called is sick. stay on the skinny face and rush it. |
By Brian Schoep
Apr 18, 2005
| Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the overhang area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is I would love the info. Thanks. |
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2005
| Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8. |
By Buff Johnson
Aug 14, 2006
| There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. Crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline. |
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2007
| We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.
Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:
1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.
3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77. |
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Dec 10, 2007
| Ken,
I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.
Thanks again,
Mike
Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike |
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2010
| Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help. |
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