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This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.
Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.
A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.
I1. What Line?, 10-, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
I2. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
U. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X1. Hell Raiser, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
X2. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Y. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
BB. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
CC. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
DD. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
EE. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
FF. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
GG. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
HH. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
II. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
JJ. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
38 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Overhang Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Overhang Area:
Corniche 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Off Line 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Overhang Area
Here Today Gone Tomorrow 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a CO
: ... : Overhang Area
Begin Here Today Gone Tomorrow just left of the starts for Mr. Peery and Mrs. Hen. The 5.11 variation runs straight up, the standard line lines dodges left for a short distance. Either way converges on an airy step-over shortly before the anchors. While the 5.11 variation seems contrived, the step-over gives the route some interest....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For Overhang Area
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...
#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber an...
Sun setting on the rocks.
A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Gree...
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Signs of spring showing up.
|By Brian Schoep|
Apr 18, 2005
Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the Overhang Area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth, but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is, I would love the info. Thanks.
|By Randy Carmichael|
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2005
Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8.
|By Buff Johnson|
Aug 14, 2006
There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. The crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2007
We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.
Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:
1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.
3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77.
|By Mike Howard|
Dec 10, 2007
I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.
Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2010
Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help.