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Overhang Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
2 Ways 2 Hell T 
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route S 
Beer Barrel Buttress S 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers T 
Beer Pong T 
Chicken Dance S 
Corniche T 
Crack to Chimney T,TR 
Crack/Bulge T 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The S,TR 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The S 
Half and Half 2 T 
Handle This Hard On! S 
Hellbound II T 
Hellraiser T 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 
Hippy School T,TR 
In Between the Lines S,TR 
Intuition S 
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain T 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow S 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut S,TR 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck S,TR 
Natural Fact T 
Off Line S,TR 
Pack 'o Bobs S 
Plumber's Crack, The T 
Routefinding 101 T 
Serious Play T,TR 
Sidelines S,TR 
Smear Me A Beer S 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim S,TR 
Toast & Jam? T 
Top Rope Face TR 
Tora, Tora, Tora T 
Toura Handle T,TR 
Toura Obscura S 
War With A Rack T 
What Line? T,TR 
Wholly Holey S 

Overhang Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.76834, -105.21695 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,133
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This area is right where the approach trail ends. As a result, it is probably now the most popular section along the cliffs. The name is misleading, because while many routes are slightly overhanging, there are no "radical overhangs" and there are also numerous less-than vertical climbs. A number of good 10s and 11s lie in wait here.

Getting There 

Ascend the trail from the parking lots. This is the area basically from near where the trail intersects the cliff band and continues left.

L->R: 

A. The Plumber's Crack, 10-, 1p, 60, gear.
B. Intuition, 7 R, 1p, 50', gear.
C. Teeter Totter Pillar aka Toast & Jam?, 7+, 1p, 50', gear (& bolts).
D. The Ground Doesn't Lie, 10+, 1p, bolts.
E. Top Rope Face, 10, 1p, TR.
F. Cracks, ?, 1p, gear.
G. Beer Barrel Buttress, 10+, 1p, 65', bolts.
H. Beer Pong, 9-, 1p, 65', gear.

I1. What Line?, 10-, 1p, 40', gear or TR.
I2. Sidelines, 8 or 10-, 1p, bolts.
J. Beer Drinkers & Hell Raisers, 8+, 1p, 45', gear.
K. In Between The Lines, 9-, 1p, 45', bolts.
L. Corniche, 7 or 8, 1p, 45', gear.
M. Off Line, 8, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Crack/Bulge, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
O. Hippy School, 8, 1p, 55', gear or TR.
P. Mr. Squirrel Places A Nut, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
Q1. Routefinding 101, 9, 1p, gear.
Q2. Tora, Tora, Tora, 11, 1p, bolts & gear.
R. Handle This Hard On, 12-, 1p, bolts.
SR. Toura Handle, 9- PG-13, 1p, 70', TR or bolts & gear.
S. Toura Obscura, 9, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
U. Here Today, Gone Tomorrow, 9 or 11+, 1p, bolts.
V1. Mr. Peery Takes A Bow, 11-, 1p, bolts.
V2. Mrs. Hen Places A Peck, 11+, 1p, bolts. Gently overhanging face.
W. Chicken Dance, 12-, 1p, bolts. R of big hole near start.
X. Hell Raiser, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
Y. Serious Play, 11 R, gear.
Z. 2 Ways 2 Hell, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
AA. Half and Half 2, 7, 1p, bolts & gear.
BB. Smear Me A Beer, 11, 1p, bolts.
CC. Hellbound II, 9, 1p, 60', gear.
DD. This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
EE. Natural Fact, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
FF. Fabulous Flying Carr's Route, 10- or 11-, 1p, bolts.
GG. Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route aka Sloping Forehead, 7+, 1p, bolts.
HH. Pack O' Bobs aka Ivory Tower, 8-, 1p, 50', bolts.
II. Crack to Chimney, 7, 1p, 60', bolt & gear.
JJ. Wholly Holey, 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
KK. War With A Rack, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
LLKK. Crack To Face, 8, 1p, 60', gear or TR.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.5 miles from here

40 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',26],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',6],['5.8',7],['5.9',12],['5.10',6],['5.11',7],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Overhang Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Overhang Area:
Corniche   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   
Beer Pong   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   
Hippy School   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Plumber's Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Ground Doesn't Lie   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Tora, Tora, Tora   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch   
Mr. Peery Take A Bow   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Chicken Dance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Handle This Hard On!   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Overhang Area

Featured Route For Overhang Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Tora, Tora, Tora bolted start.

Tora, Tora, Tora 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Golden : ... : Overhang Area
There are two options for the lower half of this route, both around 5.8. The cracks to the left are a little more awkward than the dihedral stemming over to the right. If you take the latter option, be sure to put a long sling on your last piece to minimize rope drag. Either way, now you're on a comfy ledge looking up at the intimidating, slightly overhanging face above. Thin hands and technical feet will make you earn your way to the anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Overhang Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...
Winch Hooks from Home Depot installed on Golden Cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Rock Climbing Photo: Signs of spring showing up.
Signs of spring showing up.
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO
Rock Climbing Photo: #1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easi...
#1 shows the simple set-up that is bomber and easi...
Rock Climbing Photo: A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992.  Gree...
A lot of new routes have gone in since 1992. Gree...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sun setting on the rocks.
Sun setting on the rocks.

Comments on Overhang Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Schoep
Apr 18, 2005
Hey All, I've been trying to figure out the name and rating of a route up here. It is towards the left hand side of the Overhang Area. The first three bolts follow an open book with a finger crack in the back of it. The left face is quite smooth, but the right face has some small edges. It leads to an overhang with a handjam after which it heads to the left to one more bolt and some coldshuts. If anyone knows what this is, I would love the info. Thanks.
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2005
Brian, the route you are describing I believe is an un-named 5.8.
By Buff Johnson
Aug 14, 2006
There's a natural line just climber's right of #46 (as noted in the beta pic -- #46=Offline). It takes good gear, I think 4-5 cams & a bolt to finish. A couple of balancy stem moves using some crack for good hands & fingers taking the overhangs more directly. Not too bad at all. The crux (I thought) is pulling the overhang to the right of the 2nd bolt located on Offline.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 10, 2007
We've put winch hook anchors on over thirty routes up at the Golden Cliffs Preserve. Mostly on routes I'd bolted originally. Just clip the rope in and lower off. No need to risk rappel cleaning. When these hooks get worn, they are easy and safe to replace.

Here is what we used from Home Depot in Golden:

1/2" Quick Link, rated to 1498kg, used to attach hook to bolt hanger or existing rings, $4.17. The links don't get worn and won't need much future replacement.

3/4" X 4-1/4" Winch Hook, rated to 1,134kg, can easily be replaced in the future, $4.77.
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Dec 10, 2007
Ken,

I want to be the first to thank you for your effort and expense. Might just save a life and that deserves kudos. I have been looking for mussy hooks and the only site I found them on was Fish. Did you say you got them at Home Depot as well or just the quick links? Do you oppose the hook gates? A photo would be great of the set-up.

Thanks again,

Mike

Edit 1/18/08: Thanks for the HD info and the photo and the effort. Cheers Mike
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Aug 19, 2010
Route R is Toura Obscura. It felt like a solid 5.9 relative to other GC routes. Not a bad route, but lots of bird crap didn't help.

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