Overexposure  5.9

771 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Aerili on Jul 25, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1: sweet dihedral

Not as steep as this phot...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Up the hill right of Sideshow is an arete with a line of bolts going up its polished face toward an obvious hanging anchor (chains + mussy hooks). Pitch one of Overexposure goes up the crack in the dihedral just right of the 11a arete.

Once you approach the roof overhead, there are two possible ways to finish: undercling the roof or dance along a seam that angles out left at your feet. The seam takes you to the arete, whereupon you finish on the last 6 feet of the 11a line (but NOT 11a climbing here). Belay on the hanging anchor or build a gear anchor up higher on the slab under the edge of the roof (3-4" crack).

Pitch 2: Exit left under the roof and make a super airy step out over the void to a sloping slab and reach around the corner for a bomber hand jam. Pull a few steep moves straight up...and here is where the route-finding puzzle begins.

I found most of the next section of rock in all directions to be very dirty with many giant loose talus blocks jumbled all around. Going around a corner up and right appeared feasible and looked like it could lead to the supposed wide crack finish, but the rope drag would be horrendous, so I nixed it.

Going left leads into a super vegged-out gully that offers no real climbing until a few moves at the end. This is one ending. Instead I climbed somewhat straight up and made some steep and scary moves up more solid but dirty rock to a ledge (fixed nut at date of this writing) from which I could move left into the gully up higher and finish pulling the final bouldery moves (protection very so-so).

Descent 

Walk off climber's right or go left 50 feet and rap from the anchors at the top of Freakshow (recommended).

Rappel option involves three single rop raps with a 60 m (says the guidebook) or can be done in two with a 70 m--BUT you must bypass the ginormous ledge and descend to the lower set of two mussy hook anchors you will encounter below if using the 70.

Protection 

Cams #0.3-4 + standard set of nuts and many long runners if doing the whole route.

I recommend doing only p1 and lowering off the the mussy hooks (although the p2 step-over and the 3 moves after that are excellent...but everything else is crap thereafter), in which case many less runners are needed.

Photos of Overexposure Slideshow

Add Photo

Former-gymnast-split-stylie not actually required ...