Overexposure 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Ron Burgner, Don McPherson, 1966 |
| Submitted By: | BenCooper on Sep 27, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The start from the top of the notch as described a...
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Description Have a bit more energy after following the hordes up the Beckey Route? Overexposure makes for a nice 2-pitch climb at the end of your day. Just watch out for rappel ropes, as this route follows the rappel route off of Liberty Bell. P1: From the Liberty-Concord notch, you have two options. About midway up the notch ramp, you can head up somewhat frightening rock with poor protection (5.8R) for about 30 feet until you gain more solid blocks, trending right, and a crack system that takes you to a chain-anchor. Option 2, the original route, starts at top of the notch ramp, climbing up to the same anchors. P2: Head up and right to the very nice, white dihedral. Follow to the sloping ledge with a chain-anchor. 2 rappels with 1 rope get you back to the notch.
Location Liberty-Concord notch. Approach as for Beckey Route, etc. (Blue Lake Trail).
Protection Gear to 2". If you're climbing the left variation for P1, I'd bring a couple of RP's. I would also be very comfortable on runout, difficult to protect 5.8 if you do the left variation.
Looking out of notch between Liberty Bell and Conc...
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By Wesley Ashwood From: Durango, CO Aug 2, 2010
| A little short but worth doing if you dont have much time. With a 70m the climb can be done in one pitch to the trees above the 2nd bolted rap anchor then a scramble to the top (maybe 10' of 5.low slab). |
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