Over the Shoulder Stuff 5.10c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 170 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Scott Woodruff, Dane Hare, Chris Reveley, 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Steve Annecone on Jan 11, 2011 |
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Kat A starts to follow P1 of Over The Shoulder Stu...
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This sustained and interesting climb makes one work a bit for the gear. The first pitch shares the start with the Yellow Spur direct start, and also shares a portion (the leaning slot) with One and a Half Hours of Power. The second pitch also merges with One and a Half Hours of Power. While the rock is generally clean, there are a couple of loose sections to be negotiated on the 1st pitch. Still, the overall quality is pretty good, and it's fairly challenging at the grade. A worthy adventure, especially if you've done most of the other routes in the neighborhood.
Location This starts with the Yellow Spur direct start just left of the regular Yellow Spur start. Where the YS takes a hard right, go left into the left-facing corner. Belay just above the roof after the 1st pitch, and take the second pitch all the way to "Almost Red Ledge". Walk off left (north) to the West Chimney rappels, two single rope raps will get you to the ground.
Protection Bring the usual small cams, nuts, and RPs, plus lots of long slings. No bolts anywhere, so build natural anchors at the end of each pitch.
Kat A looks up into the steep center section while...
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In case you are not pumped... P1 finishes with som...
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