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Moon Hill
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Over the Moon 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Todd Skinner, Sam Lightner, Mike Tupper - 1990
Page Views: 1,751
Submitted By: Fred Vanden Bergh on Sep 3, 2010

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High on the route

Description 

Another amazing Moon Hill route.

This route climbs up a delicate start to continuous, steep overhanging tufa stalagtites. There's a spectacular no hands rest, stradling a large tufa 1/2 way through the overhang, a welcome rest for the crux to come. (We were told the Chinese name for this route is 'Flying Horse,' named for this rest stradling the high tufa.) Continue from the rest up through slightly harder terrain, pull the lip, and finally through the crux at the last bolt where the holds get a bit smaller and the desperation increases. I've heard that many skip the final bolt before the anchor -- I did as well. The fall would be long, but totally safe. The route really has no devious, tricky, or tiny holds, its mostly an enduro fest: just keep climbing!

Its hard to imagine a better sport route with better position than this.

Location 

This climbs up the arch's steep, curving right side. Walk down, left, from the main climbing face (located on the back side of the arch as you approach it) to a line of bolts up a rounded arete, 2 routes left of Proud Sky. Follow the bolts up through the obvious stalagtites up the no hands rest atop the curving tufa. Don't go too far left after this rest, this leads to Lunar Tick, a 13b that sees relatively little traffic and some of the bolts look suspect. Instead, the first few moves off the 'Flying Horse' head just slightly *right* before cutting back left up to the lip.

A 70 meter rope is likely required to lower off -- haven't tried it with a 60.

Protection 

14 bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. 70m rope.


Photos of Over the Moon Slideshow Add Photo
Duncan getting into the crux sequence.
Duncan getting into the crux sequence.
Starting up Over the Moon
Starting up Over the Moon
Riding the "Flying Horse"
Riding the "Flying Horse"

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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

As of July 5th 2011 there was a wasp nest being built in the threader pocket just above the no hands rest on the stalactite.