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Rincon - L of Center Route
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Over the Hill 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam, 1972
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Pins [details]
Page Views: 14,875
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (213)
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On the magnificent face of the last pitch.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An all-time classic with some unusual climbing. Hike to the Rincon Wall, and head west (uphill) to the "left-facing dihedral area". The climb is identified as a long, acute, thin dihedral with a tree near the top and another just above the top. There is a semi-detached flake about twenty feet up which marks the start of the difficulties.

P1 - Climb the dihedral, with a full-body 5.10 stemming down low, and another awkward crux exiting the dihedral (optional belay at the first tree, but why?)

P2 - From the shelf above the dihedral, move left (moving the belay, if desired), and find a thin 5.9 crack up a beautiful steep slab. As good as any 5.9 pitch I've ever done.

Belay on top and descend down ledges and gullies to the west.

Protection 

Standard rack with lots of thin stuff (up to a #3 Friend).


Photos of Over the Hill Slideshow Add Photo
Les Sikos palms, smears, and stems his way up Over the Hill.
Les Sikos palms, smears, and stems his way up Over...
The lower crux of Over the Hill.
The lower crux of Over the Hill.
Clay on the last pitch of Over the Hill.
Clay on the last pitch of Over the Hill.
Jenny Schillinger follows 'Over The Hill (10b)' through the exposed 3rd pitch (5.9). Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
Jenny Schillinger follows 'Over The Hill (10b)' th...
Drew Hildner leading P2, 3-25-07.
Drew Hildner leading P2, 3-25-07.
Drew Hildner leading P2 of Over the Hill.
Drew Hildner leading P2 of Over the Hill.
Placing pro.
Placing pro.
Kat A follows P3 of 'Over The Hill' (5.10b) at Rincon.  Photo 3/2012 by Tony B.
Kat A follows P3 of 'Over The Hill' (5.10b) at Rin...
Mark Sellers, Over the Hill, 2005.
Mark Sellers, Over the Hill, 2005.
On P2 of Over the Hill, with climbers on P1 in hot pursuit.
On P2 of Over the Hill, with climbers on P1 in hot...
Photo by Joey Thompson.
Photo by Joey Thompson.
Tony Bubb follows the third pitch finger Crack on Over The Hill, in Eldo.  Photo by Lewis Rogers.
Tony Bubb follows the third pitch finger Crack on ...
Lewis Rodgers follows the crux second Pitch of Over The Hill (5.10), on Rincon Wall in Eldo.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
Lewis Rodgers follows the crux second Pitch of Ove...
Butt shot with interesting shadows. Luke is mantling the good edge on the left wall. When your foot gets to that edge, you're done with the first crux.
Butt shot with interesting shadows. Luke is mantli...
Amazing 2nd pitch of OTH.
Amazing 2nd pitch of OTH.
Me leading pitch two of 'Over the Hill'  after the 'Emerald City to Over the Hill' linkup.
Me leading pitch two of 'Over the Hill' after the...
Ben Mottinger just past the crux on the first pitch of Rincon.
Ben Mottinger just past the crux on the first pitc...
Marga Powell working up the beautiful second pitch.
Marga Powell working up the beautiful second pitch...
Dr. Armin Goodin, Chief of Surgery, Eldorado United Hospital.
Dr. Armin Goodin, Chief of Surgery, Eldorado Unite...
Doug Haller follows on P3 of 'Over The Hill (10b)' on Eldo's Rincon Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 3/2007.
Doug Haller follows on P3 of 'Over The Hill (10b)'...
Armin Goodin finishing pitch 2.
Armin Goodin finishing pitch 2.
DC pondering the old pitons.
DC pondering the old pitons.
April Wright flexing her guns as she enters the crux.
April Wright flexing her guns as she enters the cr...
Mike Amato scoping out the 10b upper crux.  He's clipped the last pin, and now must make more delicate stem and face moves to get to easier ground.
Mike Amato scoping out the 10b upper crux. He's c...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2014
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 1, 2001

One of the most fun stemming problems Ive done. Maybe only second to Practice Climb 101, or the Naked Edge.
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2001

The fixed pin at the bottom of the dihedral has been replaced (summer 2000), so no more worries when the RPs pop out as you commit to the stem. Skip the cramped belay by a small tree between the two 5.10 sections, and head for the broken ledge. Watch knocking off loose rocks here. For the bored, or gimmick-hungry, can be led in one 60m pitch, with some rope drag. A popular route, so if folks are up there be wary of rocks coming down while you power-lounge at the base of the route. Summer shade until late-morning, excellent afternoon sun in the winter (but bring a headlamp for the hike out). Named by Erickson and Ament because, in their late 20s, they felt old...have mercy on us forty-somethings.
By Matt Bauman
Jan 1, 2001

I have to agree that the 2nd pitch is as good as it comes....I led it yesterday as a 2nd pitch to Over and out...I still wanna climb the 1st pitch of Over the hill but haven gotten the nerve to, yet...soon, very soon.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jun 4, 2001

Even though the route's high quality should be apparent by all the other comments, I have to spray a little more on it. I've only done a few routes where each pitch has such continuous, excellent climbing with fantastic position and exposure (especially on P2).

The crux pitch gradually increases in difficulty until the last move before a "thank you God" jug. Like Pat said, quite fun stemming--bring shoes that can smear and hold a small edge. The second pitch has several 5.9 cruxes that are all very entertaining.

This route should be on everyone's to do list if you haven't already. Ok, I've rambled long enough now.
By Kreighton Bieger
Jul 17, 2001

I don't know what it is worth, but I have to reiterate the quality of this route as well. The first pitch (I guess technically two run together) is my favorite in all of Eldo so far. Desperate, thin gear, balancy, and so on. And I apologize to anyone who had to witness my cuss-fest getting to the first pin...and my thanks to whomever replaced the pins, although, as a general rule I try not to fall on pins in Eldo, it is nice to know you can.
By Mark Morehouse
Apr 23, 2002

The first pitch is awesome. Enough said.

Don't miss the upper pitch. It is about as good as 5.9 can get. Well protected and fairly sustained.

The walk off to the climbers left goes along way, but keep going.
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jun 14, 2002

Nice PSed pic, Myke. ;-)
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 14, 2002

No lens flare filter, I swear! It was about 12:30, that's where the sun was. :-)
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 14, 2002

Yeah, but I think the photo needs to be rotated 90 degrees!
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2002

Loved Every minute of this climb's first 50-60 feet, though it was delightfully entertaining thoughout especially when you utilize the addition of Bachar [Yer] Arian as a TR from the top. Back to that first dihedral, Kick ass stemming lots of fun fancy stem work and tall boy opportunity. I would do it once a week if I didn't live in the Gunks. Had the honor of chatting briefly with Richard [Rossiter] about his thoughts on the climb later that day. Rick Clark
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jun 1, 2003

Well protected with good moves. Stem and palm your way up the first pitch, finger jam on the second. A light rack will suffice(e.g. small cams and stoppers). Very enjoyable lead.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 5, 2003

Followed the lower pitches of this yesterday and got spanked. In that upper dihedral there's 3 pins hammered in roughly 5' apart. Its a stretch clipping the first, but the smallest purple alien will fit just below the first one if you can't reach the pin and want security before launching up. Higher up, near it s finish, look for the thin quarter size crimper out on the right face for the final crux pull. Took the sharp end on that upper face, and it put a smile on my face. An awesome pitch, with a perfect finger crack, that was sustained, but not as difficult as I thought it might be. As others have posted, small nuts are the ticket for the 1st 3/4 of the pitch. Then slip a small cam (yellow alien) in the upper flake and your home. As good as it gets for the grade.
By Hayden Yurkanis
Jul 17, 2003

I was [surprised] to find actual holds on the upper crux dihedral. [The] second pitch is easy 5.9 with rests after each move, although it looks really hard from the belay-it is very unsustained.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 27, 2003

Cool photo, Myke.
By Michael Amato
Oct 4, 2003

Got suckered out of a stem by left edges at first pin... don't do it! Stem and smear, both hands and feet all the way to the top - great climb!
By Jim Amidon
Oct 12, 2003

Just another Eldo classic with all the spice that goes with it !!!!
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I know, I know but, I gotta say it...THIS ROUTE IS THA [BEST!] Awesome stemming the entire way. IMHO the moves off the ledge, to get to the first pin are rather FREAKY, solid but freaky, At least the tree would slow your fall!!! Seriously, if your short you gotta do quite few movs to comfortably clip that first pin (thank god they're solid) Did anyone else find use for that little one finger pocket?? I sure did!! The lower portion of the route was pretty hard as well, The stemming after the flake was pretty tricky_ As for the second pitch... I vote three stars at 8+, The crack is oh so fun but not that hard. Led it one day after Emerald City and thought it was quite a bit easier. Any how Over the Hilll is one of the funnest routes I've led!!!! Enjoy. climb on!!! rs
By Lon Black
Apr 27, 2004

Funny Rich...yeah that one finger pocket was sweet. It's hard to believe how positive it was. I've never done stemming like that. What a route! At the crux, my calves were burning more than my arms. I wonder what it was like to finish the first ascent of that line? Jim must have been smiling ear to ear. Classic.

By Trevor Nydam
Sep 13, 2005

Fantastic. Excellent stemming. The second pitch is a joy with great pro. The route is a must do.
By pfwein
May 14, 2006

Classic line, but I can't quite agree with all the rapture -- the stems are tricky and it's hard work getting past the row of pins. If you're only talking about the top pitch, sure that's lots of fun.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Oct 23, 2006

Classic line. Did this in 45 degree temps, and the open-book nature of the dihedral made it quite balmy in the sun. While Aerospace and Aerial Book were experiencing sprindrift and ice fall, I soaked up the rays on this beauty.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

After doing this I think 1/2 dozen times over the years, I had the best time on it yet on Sunday...doing it as a single 65-meter pitch! I ran out the bottom of the 3rd pitch a little way, until I was in the finger crack and then used a 2' sling on the first piece or two and had surprisingly little rope drag after I flicked my rope a few times to make it run down and right to the top pin of the second pitch. It was not difficult to pull rope for clips even on the last piece of the pitch. Disclaimer: I was climbing on a new-ish 9mm rope. Using longer slings on the top two pins of that would have probably made drag a complete non-issue even on a fatter or older rope.

The PG-13 rating I am assigning to this is to take note of the awkward moves at the start of the "second pitch" that could produce a somewhat bad fall into and through that little tree.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 17, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Both pitches are stellar. If you are solid at the grade, get on it! Not good for someone breaking into the grade though, as the moves before the first pin in the upper dihedral would have a fairly nasty fall....
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 19, 2008

Stellar route, hardest stemming I've done to date! I led P2 only, but I don't think we placed anything over a #0.75 Camalot anywhere on the route. P2 eats thin nuts and cams, I placed a #1, #0 and #00 Metolius and a few small Aliens on the way up.
By Derek Doucet
Sep 8, 2010

Loved the first pitch. Fine, sustained stemming. I thought the second pitch (the 5.9 crack off the ledge that folks seem to love so much) was only fair. Uninteresting face climbing around a finger crack, and some hollow rock up high. OK as a second pitch, but I wouldn't bother with it again. Now the stemming corner on the other hand was superb. I'd just rap off from there and do one of the other brilliant pitches at Rincon instead.
By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 20, 2011

Wow, the Vernons got all the good posts.
By James Hulett
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Do this climb.
By Jeff McLeod
Oct 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Raise your hand if you cranked off the single digit pocket after the tree on the first pitch! What an awesome route; the 5.9 pitch can be lead using only stoppers.
By Rennie Putnam
From: Davis, CA
Dec 31, 2013

First ascent was by Jim Erickson, Pat Ament, and Bill Putnam in 1972. The climb is so named because Erickson was apparently feeling a bit past his prime at the time.
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 28, 2014

With a single 70m, you can link all of it to the top as one pitch, but it uses the whole rope. So make sure yours isn't short unless you want to simul a little.